Leaving the Tetons for Sturgis

Posted on August 31, 2012 by fran

After almost two weeks in or near Yellowstone and Teton National Parks the time had finally come for me to move on down the highway towards Sturgis (yes… I was about to brave the biker rally), but I have to admit I had a very hard time leaving this place behind. I’d fallen in love you see, with the breathtaking beauty of The Grand Tetons in particular. What a haunting and majestic mountain range!

I have ventured through, and often lingered, in some amazing places on this journey. How many times have I thought to myself (and written), “It couldn’t possibly get any more beautiful than this!”, only to take a turn in the road the following day and have the exact same words excitedly jump through my mind? I have numerous favorite places tucked in my memories. I had to laugh at myself the evening I drove over Teton Pass for the first time, and thought “Oh my God… this has GOT to be my favorite place!” It brought to mind the “Excerpts from a Dog’s Diary” I’d read years ago…

Excerpts from a Dog’s Diary
8:00 am – Dog food! My favorite thing!
9:30 am – A car ride! My favorite thing!
9:40 am – A walk in the park! My favorite thing!
10:30 am – Got rubbed and petted! My favorite thing!
12:00 pm – Lunch! My favorite thing!
1:00 pm – Played in the yard! My favorite thing!
3:00 pm – Wagged my tail! My favorite thing!
5:00 pm – Milk bones! My favorite thing!
7:00 pm – Got to play ball! My favorite thing!
8:00 pm – Wow! Watched TV with the people! My favorite thing!
11:00 pm – Sleeping on the bed! My favorite thing!

(I’ll share the “Excerpts from a Cat’s Daily Diary” at the end of the post to balance out the humor here)

After the amazing two day road trip that I shared in my last blog post I prepared to continue my journey east, but decided to take one last morning hike with my new friends, Beth, David and Jesse (introduced here), before hitting the highway. We met up early and drove together to Jenny Lake. There we saved ourselves a little bit of time by taking the ferry across to the start of our hike up Cascade Canyon. Since I had a bit of a drive ahead of me and David had a scheduled conference call to attend to we would only be able to hike so far before turning back, but we were determined to get as far up the trail as we could before that time came.

Rockchuck Peak I believe (someone correct me if I’m wrong!)

Hidden Falls

Colorful Amish hikers

Jenny Lake from Inspiration Point

Standing on Inspiration Point with Jenny Lake in the background

Cascade Canyon trail

I am constantly on the look out for wildlife while I’m hiking, and was lucky to spot this Bull Moose quietly grazing in the shade some distance off the trail.

Bull Moose

Cascade Canyon with Teewinot and Mount Owen on the left and Mount St. John on the right

With my friends Beth, Jesse and David

A little bit of Zen at the edge of Jenny Lake

When our merry little gang returned to the campground after our hike we said our goodbye’s and shared a warm round of hugs. As we did I acknowledged to myself that I had been very blessed to have met these wonderful new friends. Beth, David and Jesse… I hope you all read this post. Thank you again for our delightful time together. You made my stay in Teton National Park all the more memorable, and that much harder to drive away. I sincerely hope to see you all again down the road!

That afternoon I battened things down and prepped Zippy and The Beast for my final drive north through Teton National Park, into Yellowstone National Park and out the east side of the park toward Cody. I have to admit it was a bittersweet drive. If not for my commitment to be in Sturgis for the annual motorcycle rally, I might still be camped at the base of the Teton Mountain Range!

One last shot of a Bison herd who grazed daily along Gros Ventre Road

The ever so grand Teton Range

I like to think this bull Bison climbed up the hill in my direction to bid me farewell as I drove east out of Yellowstone

Absoroka Range

As I drove east I was amazed once again to watch the landscape change before my eyes. This is a part of travel that can only be witnessed from the road. The diversity of the landscape across our beautiful country is such a joy for me to witness!

I had every intention of taking several days for the trek between Yellowstone and Sturgis, but my decision to make the trip back to Big Sky Montana, and to stick around for a bit more hiking with my friends, hastened my journey a bit. I booked a camp site in Cody Wyoming for the first night, which worked out nicely because a friend of mine from Frisco, Chris Fritche, and his new wife (who I had not met) were there at the same time. After settling in and taking the dogs for a good long walk, I met Chris and Lori for dinner at the well known Irma Hotel. And of course we had to follow that with a night at the Cody Rodeo!

I knew from experience that the 360 mile drive from Cody to Sturgis (roughly six hours by car) would take me longer in my big motorhome, especially considering I had to tackle Bighorn Pass on the way. I’d been warned by David and Beth that it was steep and grueling, and I believed them. Long, steep, windy and narrow passes like that are treacherous and tiring, so I played it smart and booked my next camp site just beyond the pass in Sheridan Wyoming.

As I entered Bighorn National Forest I was amazed at how quickly the elevation changed. It seemed like I went from flat open space into the forest and pointed up the mountainside in a matter of moments. In no time I was wishing for places to stop for pictures. It was beautiful! Often times I can’t stop because of the size of my motorhome, but in the case of this narrow highway I would have been just as frustrated in my car. The few turnouts I came upon did not lend themselves to capturing the beauty of the area, so I used them only to let those who were patiently following behind me (mostly Harley’s) pass safely.

I regretted not having more time to explore Cody and Sheridan, but I was on a mission to get to Sturgis. My sole purpose for going to this motorcycle rally was to capture images of the dogs who come along with their owners on their Harley’s. The plan was to meet up with my very good friends, Steve and Lisa Jane Johnson, who had been there several times and new the ropes. They have a group of friends who go every year and rent a house 20 miles west of the heart of the rally, in Spearfish. The gracious and hospitable owners of the house, Dave and Claudia Little, agreed long before we met, to allow me to park my RV on their property while there.

At that time the benefits as I saw them were saving me the substantially increased pricing to stay in an RV park for the week and proximity to my friends. Looking back, I cannot imagine experiencing my time there any other way! I would have been a fish out of water planted amongst thousands of bikers in any of the area campgrounds.

As it turned out, Steve and Lisa Jane had to cancel their trip only days before they were due to arrive, but I was welcomed with open arms by their friends and enjoyed spending my time with them immensely! Each day we shared coffee and/or breakfast together and then they’d take off on their rides while I journeyed out to find my Harley Dogs. When evening rolled around we met up again… all hot, sticky and dead-dog tired (no pun intended)… to share libations and dinner and our stories of the day.

The Motley “Crew” (my new friends) from left to right- Phil, Mike, Susan, Todd and Ryan

On a personal level… from the seat of my Honda hatchback, or standing on street corners watching for dogs… I thought the entire event was absolutely insane. Hundreds of thousands of bikes and bikers cruising individually and in groups through the jam packed streets and backroads in a large radius surrounding Sturgis, the hub of all the craziness. I saw it ALL (actually I’m sure I didn’t because I was only out there in the daylight)… the tattoos, the tricked out bikes (one disguised as a Bison!), the tough looking dudes, the biker babes riding topless behind THEIR dudes, the cram-packed campgrounds most of which did not exist except for the two or three weeks surrounding “Sturgis”… but not once did I feel in the least bit unsafe milling alone amongst this crowd. Every single person I approached and talked to was friendly and gracious.

Oh, and did I mention the dogs? For the purpose of my book project I have to keep most of those under wraps for now, but I met several and they all seemed quite happy to be a part of this annual migration to Sturgis. I don’t know what better word to use, but I will say that during the few weeks leading up to and following this event the percentage of bikers on the roadways increased tremendously.

Not a great shot, but an interesting trio for sure!

Most of my time was spent in search of dogs, but I did take time off to drive out to some of the favorite day trip destinations… Devil’s Tower, Spearfish Canyon, Mount Rushmore and The Badlands. All very impressive, and all drives that would be great fun on a bike.

Devil’s Tower, South Dakota

Mount Rushmore, South Dakota

The Badlands of South Dakota

My time in South Dakota was interesting to say the least. I was happy to put the noise behind me, but I was glad for the experience, and most especially to have met some wonderful new friends. A huge thank you to Susan and Mike for arranging a spot for my RV, introducing me around, and looking out for me during my stay. It was my pleasure to meet you two as well as Phil, Todd, Ryan and Heidi. Let’s plan on a reunion when I come back through Texas!! Thanks also to Steve and Lisa Jane for hooking me up with such great new friends!

Up next… Nebraska, Minnesota and Wisconsin!

_________

Excerpts from a Cat’s Daily Diary

Day 983 of my captivity.

My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while the other inmates and I are fed hash or some sort of dry nuggets. Although I make my contempt for the rations perfectly clear, I nevertheless must eat something in order to keep up my strength. The only thing that keeps me going is my dream of escape. In an attempt to disgust them, I once again vomit on the carpet.

Today I decapitated a mouse and dropped its headless body at their feet. I had hoped this would strike fear into their hearts, since it clearly demonstrates what I am capable of. However, they merely made condescending comments about what a “good little hunter” I am. Bastards.

There was some sort of assembly of their accomplices tonight. I was placed in solitary confinement for the duration of the event. However, I could hear the noises and smell the food. I overheard that my confinement was due to the power of “allergies” I must learn what this means, and how to use it to my advantage.

Today I was almost successful in an attempt to assassinate one of my tormentors by weaving around his feet as he was walking. I must try this again tomorrow — but at the top of the stairs.

I am convinced that the other prisoners here are flunkies and snitches. The dog receives special privileges. He is regularly released -and seems to be more than willing to return. He is obviously retarded. The bird has got to be an informant. I observe him communicate with the guards regularly. I am certain that he reports my every move. My captors have arranged protective custody for him in an elevated cell, so he is safe. For now…

One Day in Glacier National Park

Posted on August 3, 2012 by fran

Knowing I had a full day ahead of me in the park, I took the girls for an pre-dawn walk, and made sure they were comfy in the motorhome before leaving Columbia Falls and heading up the highway to the west entrance of Glacier National Park. I’d spent a bit of time in the park upon my arrival the previous afternoon/evening, but there was much more I wanted to see. It is always my desire to head out early, when the light is best and the trails are not crowded with people. That would typically be at the crack of dawn. I enjoyed a peaceful drive up Going-to-the-Sun Road. With very few people on the road I was able to pull over from time to time just to enjoy the beautiful vistas. Still a bit early for the best light, but I knew I’d be passing through another time or two.

I arrived at the Visitors Center parking lot at the top of Logan Pass to find only 4 or 5 other cars… and several Big Horn Sheep. The Sheep were milling about the parking lot, licking what I assumed was dredges from the bottom of soda cans emptied to the ground by the thousands of tourist that visit each day. While this may be true, I found out from a Ranger later in the day that they also lick up antifreeze that leaks from some of the vehicles. THAT can’t be good!

It was amazing to see these animals so close, but other than a few quick shots, I did not take advantage of their close proximity since I found the parking lot an undesirable background. I did enjoy watching them though, as the Rams often gathered in small groups, slamming their heads together with a clatter that echoed through the empty parking lot. Practicing for the approaching rut season I imagine.

The most dominant of the Rams. The others seemed to follow him, and mimic him, like kids would with an older sibling.

One Ewe a-leaping…

Tweens?

From the parking lot I hiked up the hill and across the glacier toward Hidden Lake. Thankfully there were only three other people on this glacier as I set out. It was icy and slick in the early morning, making the trek across the mountain a bit challenging.

View from the Glacier at Logan’s Pass

I was on the look out for Mountain Goats above me, and finally spotted a group of six further up the glacier. I stood watching them for awhile, enjoying the antics of the two playful Kids in the group. They were leaping and prancing and egging each other on… when all of a sudden one of the adults (teen maybe) breaks out in what I can only call a “dance” down the mountain… literally spinning in gleeful circles down the glacier. It was hilarious, and literally had me laughing out load. Once again, as I often find myself doing, I looked around me wishing I could share the amazing moment with someone. I don’t know if the Kids inspired him or if he was showing them how it was done, but the preciousness of the moment was not lost on me. Two weeks later I’m still smiling at the memory.

The Dance

Another notable thing that was happening at the same time… I spotted one solo Big Horn Ram standing a relatively short distance from this group, just to the left of the snow pack. He watched and waited. Fear? Respect? For whatever reason he kept his distance and waited before stepping out and crossing the snowpack. Enjoying the show maybe? I kept an eye on him too, hoping for a moment like this one…

Lone Big Horn Sheep

Melt atop the Glacier

When I arrived at the overlook above Hidden Lake there was one other person there. Jeff was his name if I recall. Nice guy. We stood talking for a long time while enjoying the stunning vista, debating whether to hike down to the lake, and agreeing the view couldn’t possibly be better than from where we were standing. As we stood talking we noticed a Mountain Goat coming up over the rise above the lake below us… and then another… and another. Ten in all, two of them Kids, and they were headed straight for us. We figured they were bound to see us and veer off in a different direction, but they just kept walking straight toward us.

We stood quietly and waited as all ten of them walked right up the mountainside to a ridge only a few yards from where we stood. Clearly they knew where they wanted to be, and a couple two legged animals weren’t going to deter them. While the “leader” lay down right below us, the others, including the Kids, came even closer. No fear. Amazing. I got a shot of Jeff standing only a couple feet from one that walked right by him. Photographing them was like shooting fish in a barrel. The hardest part was deciding which ones to share.

Hidden Lake

Family of Mountain Goats

The leader of this small group

The leader’s expression looks gentle and curious as he lays just below me.

On the way up to this overlook I noticed white hair hanging in some of the trees. I snagged a small tuft of it to add to the little treasure trove of memorabilia I’ve collected on my journey. What I surmised is that these animals “sheer” themselves annually by rubbing their winter coat off on the trees and brush along their routes. I was just commenting on this, and how this one looked like she was wearing a tutu, when she rolled over and looked up at me like a puppy wanting attention. Yet another precious and memorable moment!

If I didn’t know better I’d think she was just begging me to come rub her belly

Some of these guys (including the Kids) came so close I could have reached out and touched them, and I think they may very well have let me, but I respectfully resisted the urge. As calm as they seemed, they are wild animals, and therefore unpredictable.

It was really hard to break myself away from this scene, but I still had much more adventure ahead of me, so I forced myself back down the trail. As I trekked back down the glacier… throngs of bodies now coming up… I spot the small group I’d seen earlier. Play time was over, and these little guys were now practicing what mountain goats do under the watchful eye of their mother. Amazing the agility!

The Kids… climbing a cliff side.

From Logan Pass I continued east on Going-to-the-Sun Road. The beautiful vistas were never ending, but constantly changing as I weaved my way down the mountain.

Waterfall along Going-to-the-Sun Road

My next hike was to St Mary’s Falls, and beyond to Virginia Falls. Again, I hiked alone (and Bear aware), but frequently passed small groups (and sometimes Deer) along the trail.

This “adorned” young Whitetail Buck stood there facing me for awhile, as if waiting for me to strike up a conversation.

St Marys Falls

Cascades below Virginia Falls

Virginia Falls

Beargrass stem about to bloom

Beargrass

I drove along St. Mary’s Lake as I neared the east edge of the park. I didn’t linger here because I planned on being back to this spot by sunrise the following morning. (That meant driving the entire length of Going-to-the-Sun road before sunrise! Those of you who have been on that road may cringe along with me at the thought.)

St Marys Lake and Goose Island

Once outside the park I drove north to the entrance that would take me to Many Glacier, and I arrived as a summer storm was brewing. There’s nothing quite like the sound of the crack of thunder echoing through the mountains. Soon after, the sky opened up with heavy rain.

Mount Grinnell and Swiftcurrent Lake at Many Glacier

It had rained a bit over the last few days, but it was coming down steady as I drove out of the park and back down to the east entrance for my westbound journey over the pass on Going-to-the-Sun road. When I reached the top of Logan Pass the traffic was at a stand still. Not too far from the front of the line, I got word from one of the Rangers directing traffic that four rock slides had closed the road. I was told that it was too early to asses how long it would take to open the road again, and that I could wait or go back out the east entrance and all the way around the south end of the park.

Uggghhhhh… at the end of a very full day I dreaded the idea of adding another 3+ hours to my drive. After a short debate with myself, it seemed like the prudent thing to do. My dogs were waiting after all, and I had no idea how long I might sit here. I was not alone in this odyssey skirting the south end of the park. Although it seemed like I set out alone, it turned into a long line of cars in no time. I almost missed the short cut on Hwy 2 because my GPS was trying to keep me on main highways, but I vetoed it’s choice when I saw others making that turn in my rearview mirror.

As it turned out, the drive was really quite lovely. I pulled off a few times to take pictures, once in unison with a family just ahead of me. I heard grumbling as we all stepped out of our cars. I could relate. As the mother stepped up close to me and looked out over the valley, I asked if they had been detoured at the top of the pass as well. She said yes, and I could tell she felt much like I had… frustrated at the prospect of the long drive (and undoubtedly tired of listening to the whining). I couldn’t help but share the thought that ran through my mind only moments before, as I stepped out of my car to this amazing vista. I said, “Ah, but if not for the inconvenience we would all have missed the blessing of this beautiful view.” To that, she looked at me and simply said, “Thank you.”

From Hwy 2 looking back on the south end of Glacier National Park

I also had to acknowledge to myself that I may very well have been stuck in the midst of those rock slides had I been just a few minutes further up the highway at the time. Reportedly two people sustained minor injuries and several folks were stuck and had to wait for the roads to be cleared enough for them to be escorted out. By mid morning the following day the road was still closed. Although I had hoped for more time in the park I chose to head on down the highway and get part of the long drive to Yellowstone behind me.

So… that’s where I’ll be taking you next… Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Two amazing and diverse places that I passed through last fall way too quickly!

I Could Call This Place Home

Posted on July 18, 2012 by fran

Anyone who’s been following my blog for awhile knows of my infatuation with Colorado. In my earlier years it was skiing the dry Colorado snow that drew me here in the winter. Later it was to reconnect with friends I’d met while traveling who happen to share my love for nature and the outdoors. I flew out several summers ago to do some backpacking with Carol, who I met at a photography convention in Vegas. And when my friend Tony, who I met at a convention in Wisconsin, offered to teach me to fly fish… with turning Aspens in the Colorado mountains as the background… I leapt at the chance! Colorado was my first stop outside of Texas last fall, and my second. I literally had to force myself to get on up the highway!

There’s no wondering why I chose Colorado as the background for my next dog book! It’s an amazingly beautiful place! The book project brought me full circle through the state for the entire month of February to gather the winter images for my book, and I’ve just wrapped up another six weeks of traveling throughout the state gathering my summer images. While here I had the pleasure of spending quality time with some wonderful friends. Some of those friends I’ve known a long time, while others I’ve met along the trail. As I’ve mentioned before, these encounters are a part of the blessings of this journey. Each one is special, and I carry the memories along with me… like precious gems in my pocket. Or maybe a better analogy would be like charms on a bracelet, each representing a special memory.

So… picking up where I left off, and wrapping up my last several days in Colorado…

My cousin Anne had generously offered the use of their condo in Breckenridge, and I had a safe place to leave my RV with my friend Carol, so the girls and I went by car to spend a few days in the Vail-Breckenridge area. Every time I drive through Glenwood Canyon along the Colorado River (I70) I am completely entranced. And as many times as I have driven both directions through this area, I have yet to get past the longing for some good turn-offs along the way. There are a couple of rest stops, but none in the most picturesque places. Seriously, when the light is bouncing dramatically off the walls of this canyon will take your breath away.

I photographed several wonderful dogs while in the area, but again… can’t share them all. I assure you though, that between the amazing dogs and stunning backgrounds, the book will be beautiful and worth the wait! I did come upon some canines I can share though, a mother fox and her one kit. These two were fun to observe for awhile.

The little guy joyfully teasing his Mom

Many of my dog images are captured spontaneously, but some are scheduled, and planned around iconic Colorado backgrounds. One of the dog owners met me way up a mountainside for this spectacular view of Breckenridge.

Breckenridge was very busy with tourists while we were there, as were the other communities we hit while in this part of the state… Dillon and Vail. Since I was running a full week behind schedule I was perfectly content focusing on the dogs I found along the way, and avoiding most of the packed streets and trails. After a couple of days away we were back in the Aspen area for the 4th of July. Thankfully fireworks were banned pretty much throughout the state, but the girls and I enjoyed a free concert in the park alongside hundreds of other locals and tourists. It rained a bit while we were there, but with wildfires raging throughout the state, it didn’t seem to dampen anyone’s spirit one bit!

There’s a wonderful memorial to John Denver along the river in Aspen, with many of his songs engraved on boulders throughout. We strolled through on our way back to the car, and I found myself singing his songs along the way. No need to read the words. I know most of them by heart.

In addition to all the other cool dogs I photographed while I was here, I managed arrange a morning with the Krabloonik Sled Dogs in Snowmass. Since it is off season, and also unseasonable warm for the area, I did not get to see the dogs in action, but enjoyed a tour through the compound and some time with a littler of pups. This is undoubtedly a great place to experience in the winter!

One of several “dog yards”. WOW!

What fascinating eyes!

Puppy breath!!!

Another cool find while there

Snowmass

The following morning we were off to our final Colorado destination… Steamboat Springs! On our way out though, we made one last stop to photograph Dante, who we met along with his owner, Amita, at the Farmers Market in Basalt. With my RV (and car) parked safely off the highway, we hopped in the truck with Amita and Dante for a ride up to their “little spot of heaven” where they had an outstanding view of Sopris!

Dante with Sopris in the background

While in Steamboat Springs for my winter shoot, I was amazed at how helpful the dog owners were at suggesting other dogs (and owners) I might like to meet. One dog led to another, and before I knew it I was traveling all over the county photographing some marvelous dogs. Susan Shoemaker and her herding dogs, Ringer and Babe, were among those I met. She has a wonderful property with an old barn that made a perfect background for her dogs. During my short visit with her last winter she invited me to bring my RV out and sit tight for awhile when I made it back to town. I can’t tell you how touched I am by the graciousness of strangers as I travel. Of course I said yes!

Susan’s dog, Ringer, herding the flock during our winter visit.

Before arriving Steamboat I sent a note to all the dog owners I’d met previously, letting them know I was heading back to town and asking for suggestions on more dogs. One of those dog owners, Rich Landon (who introduced me to Susan come to think of it) offered to bring his dog Belle out for a second shoot. We made arrangements to meet at a little country store several miles out of town near Steamboat Lake, and go from there. Belle, who has only three legs incidentally, is the gentlest dog you’d ever meet but you’d never know it by this humorous shot I got of her. Since she looks like she’s viciously stalking me I could never use the image in my book, but it made me chuckle (knowing the true nature of this dog) so I have to share.

Belle putting on a good show for me.

After meeting with Rich and Belle I hopped over to Steamboat Lake where I found a few more dogs, enjoyed the scenery, and wished for time to drop my kayak in the water.

Reflections on Steamboat Lake

Steamboat Lake

I resisted the urge to kayak on this peaceful lake because I was on a mission to meet “Spike”… the man known by many to have the finest herding dogs in the county. I was not surprised to find him out working the ranch when I arrived. Since we’d never met and I was pretty sure he had not received the message I’d left earlier that morning, I lurked for awhile… until his lovely wife Libby and their two adorable kiddos, Emmitt and Josie, came out to meet me on their 4-wheeler. Again, I was not surprised when Libby said, “Hop on! I’ll take you out to meet him!” I had too much fun with my time out there to care one bit about all the fresh cow poop I was stepping in!

Libby, Josie and Emmitt

Spike bringing the cattle in with the help of his dogs, Hank and Chief

And once again, I was taken with the beauty of Colorado!

View from the ranch

The following day we hiked up Fish Creek with another dog owner I met in February, Donna Segale, and her dog Bacci. This is the waterfall from the Coors label. Interestingly, it’s brewed in a completely different part of the state.

Fish Creek Falls

Jazzy and Sadie enjoying the cool, fresh water of Fish Creek

Between thunderstorms the girls and I enjoyed hiking across Susan’s ranch and found all kinds of things that made us stop and ponder for awhile.

This dust covered Porcupine still has me wondering

Susan and her dogs Ringer and Babe, and Jazzy getting in on the action

I have to admit to a bit of a melancholy feeling as I packed up to leave Colorado. I have spent much more time here than any other state on my journey so far. Three times I’ve journeyed through, and all three times I felt almost overwhelmed by the beauty… and the feeling that I needed more time. People ask me all the time how long my journey will last. Right now I don’t know how far I will go, or how long it will last, or where I will land. I just trust that I’ll know when it’s time to stop. If it happens to be in Colorado, I’d be very content, because I really could happily call this place home.

A very special thank you to all of the dog owners I met throughout the state! It was wonderful connecting with you and your wonderful pets. I’m sorry I am unable to share all of them here on my blog, but they can all be seen the Mountain Dogs of Colorado gallery on my website… www.franreisner.com

Captivated by Colorado

Posted on July 13, 2012 by fran

At this very moment I’m enjoying a lovely sunrise in Utah. I’m also making a promise to myself to get caught up with my writing so that I’m not having to dig so far back in my memories in order to share them. I wish I could put to pen, the experiences as I am having them… sharing the depth of the moment… the beauty, the wonder, the joy. Between the pace and the projects and the ongoing battles with technology I’ve not yet found a way to make that happen.

In my last post I mentioned that Telluride should have been the next town on my route while working on my book, and that I had to drive right past because of a huge Bluegrass Festival clogging the town with people. Instead I went on to Gunnison, where my new friends Brian and Cherrie Haugh had offered to host us on their dog and RV friendly property. We had no idea what a treat we were in for! Once “the beast” was safely resting in their driveway, we (me and the girls) were shown to our cozy room upstairs. Actually, we were given a choice… sunrise view or river view. Knowing I’d be listening to the soothing sound of it flowing by as I drifted off to sleep, I chose the river.

Butterfly enjoying the flowers on Cherrie and Brian’s back deck

Sunset from Cherrie and Brian’s back deck

Brian and Cherrie have a beautiful Golden named Dakota, and she made the girls quite welcome. “Koda” is every bit a Golden in her never ending energy and love of “fetch” and water. We all took turns tossing the ball for her, but when no one was standing there ready to play, Koda played fetch on her own. She’d stand on a rock along the river, drop the ball in the water, and as it floated away she’d dive in after it. Over and over and over again! What a smart dog! Her enthusiasm even rubbed off on Sadie.

Although Jazzy and Sadie are part Golden, neither of them has ever taken to swimming. They’ll wade along the shore, and Jazzy will lay down in the water to cool off, but that’s the extent it… until now. While I was throwing the ball for Koda, Sadie got all excited and wanted in on the action. They ran side by side down to the water, and out onto the rocks, but that’s where Sadie drew the line. Over and over she raced after the ball with Koda, paced on the rock excitedly while Koda dove in to get it, and then came running back up wagging her tail as Koda deposited the ball at my feet. Sadie was happy enough just being a part of the chase, and then… in a moment of sheer enthusiasm… her momentum took her sliding right off the rock and into the water. She was surprised at first, and swam to shore immediately, but she must have admitted to herself that the water actually felt pretty darn good, because from that moment on she ran down the hill and dove right in the water along with Koda! I shouldn’t be surprised that it took a Golden to teach my dog she’s at least part water dog. The whole time this was happening Jazzy lay quietly in a pool of water along the shore, watching the scene as if mildly amused. That’s Jazzy.

Koda and Sadie

Cherrie, Brian and Dakota

In addition to enjoying some wonderful meals and our growing friendship, Brian and Cherrie took me on some local adventures. We took the lovely “back road” to Crested Butte for their local Farmer’s Market.

Aspens

We went to a neighbor’s ranch to watch some “ridin’ and ropin” amongst friends. Photographing this sport was a new and fun experience for me, although a tad on the dusty side. It took no time at all before I had a layer of grit between my teeth. I understand now why cowboys spit all the time! I have to say, as impressed as I was with the men, I was every bit as impressed with the skills of the few women out there.

And of course I had to sneak out into the nearby pasture to photograph this spirited young colt.

Brian and Cherrie also introduced me to several dog owners while there, for potential additions to my book, The Mountain Dogs of Colorado. One of them, Drew, who works at Waggin’ Tails and is a dog trainer, has several dogs. I photographed several, but the one who touched me the most was this sweet rescue, Fiona. She is a pit mix who was used in the training of fighting dogs. It’s amazing to me that a dog could take that kind of abuse by human hands and turn out to be such a sweet natured pet.

Rescue Pups fostered at Waggin’ Tails in Gunnison

Rather than drive my motorhome all the way back up the mountain to Telluride, Cherrie and Brian offered to watch after Jazzy, Sadie and The Beast while I backtracked for a couple days in my car. This really made a whole lot more sense, and it freed me up to get in, work unencumbered, (harder to shoot fast with my dogs in tow) and still have time to see some of the sights.

There’s no shortage of dogs in Telluride, so I gathered images fairly quickly and easily, thus freeing up a bit of time to “play”. I was completely taken by the beauty I observed from the drivers seat of The Beast while cruising from Delores up to (and past) Telluride a few days prior, and hoped to find the time to drive back over Lizard Head Pass in my car when I returned. Since photographing dogs mid day is not ideal, I took advantage of that time to make that drive. I had no intention of going all the way back to Delores (about 70 miles), but that’s where the road led me. I stopped for lunch at a little cafe with free wifi and got a little work done while dining. (One thing about free wifi in an empty cafe… ya don’t have to share the connection!)

I enjoyed the drive (down and back) every bit as much as I did the first time through, and was able to pull off the road several times where I couldn’t in The Beast.

Looking into the box canyon surrounding Telluride

Delores River

San Juan Mountains

Sunshine Mountain near Telluride

Telluride has always been one of my favorite places, and that was solely based on my time here in the winter. It really was a special treat for me see this beauty in the summer!

The box canyon of Telluride

Bridal Veil Falls at the end of the road in Telluride

I wish I could share all the dogs along the way! I’ve met so many, and they are all wonderful in their own special and unique ways. Now that I’m finished with the summer collection for my book and out of Colorado, I’m having to resist the urge to crane my neck toward every single dog I see along the way. Seriously! These dogs are habit forming! Gotta share one more. I had the pleasure of spending a bit of time with Leroy and his owners one morning, and it was clear that this is his favorite thing to do.

Leroy lives to catch balls!

The drive between Telluride and Gunnison hadn’t grown old by the third time!

San Miguel River in Teluride

Ranch Land under the San Juan Mountains

Blue Mesa Reservoir

I arrived back in Gunnison to hugs and smiles and two dogs who were VERY happy to see me. Once settled we enjoyed a relaxing night of Brian’s famous Linguini and Clams and tales from the road. The girls and I enjoyed our time in Gunnison so much we could have stayed indefinitely, but at this point I was already a full week behind my estimated schedule in Colorado with a deadline looming in the distance. I still had Aspen, Vail, Breckenridge and Steamboat ahead of me, so the girls and I prepped for the road the following morning. With Brian and Cherrie’s help I backed the beast onto the road (tricky turns and into traffic!), hooked up Zippy, shared a round of hugs, and rolled on down the highway. A very special thank you to Brian, Cherrie and Dakota for the wonderful hospitality! We loved every minute of our time with you!

Next stop was the Aspen/Basalt area, and the route took me up a steep and windy highway with one of the most amazing views I have ever witnessed! As usual, I was whining to myself about not being able to stop and capture the beauty I was witnessing, and was extremely grateful to find one turn out just big enough for The Beast along the way.

Morrow Point Reservoir

From an overlook on Hwy 92 between Gunnison and Hotchkiss

And the beauty didn’t stop there. I continue to be amazed at the diverse landscape of our country, and to watch it unfold as I drive is almost indescribable!

From McClure Pass

Crystal River near Redstone

Crystal River

Hays Creek Falls

The day’s drive led us back to Basalt, just down the mountain from Aspen. This is an area we’ve become familiar with, having spent time here last fall, and then again in the winter. Although here for the dogs, and short on time, we did get to see my friend Carol. As luck would have it, time with Carol almost always includes a good hike!

While in Aspen I decided to take advantage of a safe place to leave my RV as well as the opportunity to use my cousin Anne’s condo in Breckenridge, so plans were made to save on some gas and do yet another road trip in “Zippy” (my tow car). Before heading down the highway I took the girls for an early morning hike at the infamous Maroon Bells.

On the drive to Maroon Bells

Colorado Aspens

Maroon Bells from the bank of Maroon Lake

Wildflower at Maroon Bells Lake

Marmot

Tiny little waterfall on West Maroon Creek

Next up… Breckenridge, a bit more of the Aspen area, and finally… Steamboat Springs! Stay tuned for more never ending beauty from the road!

To Durango and Beyond

Posted on July 5, 2012 by fran

After hovering in Westcliffe, visiting old friends and making new ones, and enjoying some heartwarming animal encounters, it was time to shove off and continue on my journey. I couldn’t leave town before visiting the Paca Peace Farm though. I went to photograph their Akbash Guard Dogs (part of my book collection) and fell in LOVE with the Alpaca! What adorable creatures. I want one!!!! (Boy do I sound like Elissa! ) Seriously, if I could figure out how to travel with one in an RV the girls would be sharing their seat with a baby Alpaca now! These cuties had been sheered only days before I arrived, but they were still enchanting to me. Bella and Buddy, their guardians, were precious as well.

Akbash Guard Dog, Bella

Dinner time!

Akbash Guard Dogs, Bella and Buddy

Guarding the herd

From Westcliffe I drove back to Salida, down to South Fork, and over Wolf Creek Pass. This is a long, steep pass (10, 857 ft), but a stunning drive. Once again, few places to pull over in a 35′ motorhome, so when I was just shy of the summit I pulled out into the empty ski area parking lot, unhooked “Zippy”, and headed back down the mountain. Yep! Sometimes it’s just gotta be done!

South Fork of the Rio Grande

Wolf Creek Pass, Hwy 160

After hooking back up and continuing on over the summit I went into sensory overload. First of all, the drive back down the other side was at least as steep and probably more windy. The new breaking system I added to my tow car a few weeks ago became well worth the expense on this drive alone!

From Wolf Creek Pass looking south toward Pagosa Springs

This pass was made famous by country artist CW McCall. In his song (written by Bill Fries and Chip Davis) he fondly described the pass as “37 miles o’ hell — which is up on the Great Divide.” In the song, two truckers drive an out-of-control down the highway into Pagosa Springs – a 5,000-foot drop in elevation.

I looked at Earl and his eyes was wide

His lip was curled, and his leg was fried.

And his hand was froze to the wheel like a tongue to a sled in the middle of a blizzard.

I says, “Earl, I’m not the type to complain

But the time has come for me to explain

That if you don’t apply some brake real soon, they’re gonna have to pick us up with a stick and a spoon…”

(This info taken from Wikipedia at the link above)

It was an intense drive down, I have to admit, but absolutely breathtaking (in more ways than one!) If I hadn’t had an appointment to photograph a dog in Durango that evening I’d have found a place to ditch The Beast again, and drive back up with some stops along the way. Not just the pass itself, but the landscape and ranch land between there and town was just beautiful. Chalk it up to one more place I’ll have to get back to one day.

While in Durango I met up with several dog owners to gather more images for my book. One morning I hiked with two “dog moms” up the same trail. I met Kathleen and Roscoe (Great Dane) when I was here for my winter shoot. LeeAnn is the owner of Healthy Hounds and Fat Cats in Durango, and she brought along Pipsqueak (pom/corgi mix) and Bobo (tri color corgi). And I, of course, had Jazzy and Sadie along for the hike. The combination of dogs made for an interesting, challenging, and sometimes humorous “session” to say the least. It was a fun morning, and beautiful hike.

Junction Creek

Water dogs?

Since the trail didn't need marking I assume these cairn are just for fun

I met up with Kathleen and Roscoe one last time while in Durango, to get the ultimate shot of him. I understand (from several folks) that this is a common site around town.

Roscoe!

I finally got another chance to put my kayak in the water in a calm area of the Anamas River, and paddled upstream… away from the rapids. It was a hot afternoon, and there were lots of people out paddling and floating downstream in every kind of contraption.

A boy and his dog. Precious!

It’s funny how one connection leads to another. While hiking with Kathleen and LeeAnn, Kathleen mentioned a guy she sees skateboarding with his dog in her neighborhood, and had even been watching for him on my behalf. LeeAnn knew of him as well, and told me he owned a bike shop on Main Street, so I stopped by after the hike. Turned out he’d recently sold the bike shop but the new owner gave me his name and number. After my kayak excursion I drove about half a mile down the road and met Jeff and his dog Atlas, and photographed them skateboarding together, and THEN we went rafting down the rapids I’d avoided in my kayak, right through downtown Durango. What a great way to spend a hot afternoon!

Jeff and his dog Atlas.

What can you expect from a happy river dog?

Next stop on my journey was Mesa Verde National Park. I’d been reading about this place for awhile, and had to drive right by it on my way through the area last winter. You can easily spend an entire day in this park if you want to see it all. I did a shortened, self-guided tour since the dogs were locked in my RV with the AC running. I don’t like to leave them for long just in case the electricity went down or something, but I knew they would not be allowed on the hiking trails in the park either.

Entering Mesa Verde National Park

The Park was dedicated as one of our national treasures in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt, to protect some of the best-preserved cliff dwellings in the world, or as he said, “preserve the works of man”. It occupies 81.4 square miles and features numerous ruins built by the Ancestral Puebloan people, sometimes called the Anasazi.

Dwellings in Spruce Tree House

Down a ladder in Spruce Tree House

View from above of Cliff Palace

Balcony House very top, slightly right of center of the image. You can see how it got it's name!

I had planned on Telluride being my next destination, but failed to realize their big annual Bluegrass Festival was going on the weekend I was to arrive. I thoroughly enjoyed the drive from Mesa Verde through Delores and up over Lizard Head Pass, and was really looking forward to seeing Telluride (one of my favorite ski areas) for the first time in the summer, but had to keep on driving… to Gunnison. That story to come!

Road Trip!

Posted on June 28, 2012 by fran

I know. You’re all thinking LIFE is a road trip for me, right? It’s true, but as I’ve mentioned many times, I can’t stop at some of the most beautiful places along the way while driving “The Beast”, and there are some places ya just can’t get to in a 35′ motorhome. One of the main reasons for me to have a tow car is to be able to turn onto the “road less traveled” from time to time, and I do it as often as I can.

With the help of my friends, Bob and Kathy, I planned a full day road trip combining places they suggested with places I’d read about. Roughly an eight hour journey, but that didn’t take into consideration the numerous stops I’d make along the way to document the trip. With Jazzy and Sadie along for the ride, we set out shortly after sunrise.

The map above is as close to my route as I could get via google maps. I thought it might be more interesting (and informative) to follow along this way. Westcliffe was my starting and ending point, so it shows up as “H” on the map. From there I drove east on Hwy 96, and then south on Hwy 165 to Lake Isabel [B], one of Bob’s favorite lakes. I completely agree it was lovely and peaceful, and no doubt a place of vivid beauty in the fall. On the way I happened upon a heard of Big Horn Sheep, and not too much further I spotted more deer.

Big Horn Sheep

A little further down the road… as I was eyeing a cool old barn, this adorable calf trotted into view almost playfully. In my mind I could hear a child’s voice calling out, “Look at me! You can take a picture if ya want to!” And then Mom came along, and bellowed at him in reprimand. There is no doubt in my mind she was scolding him for talking to strangers as she hustled him on down the trail. These brief moments were sweet and comical, and kept me smiling for miles.

Lake Isabel

Backtracking down Hwy 165 I made a very quick stop at Bishop’s Castle. As most of you know, I’m not a big fan of “tourist attractions”, but I’d heard this was worth a quick look at least. Impressive? Yes. And who am I to question why? I cannot judge or fault those who are driven by passion. Being here did bring to mind two other interesting stops I’ve made on my journey, Salvation Mountain and Watt’s Towers, both in southern California.

The Bishop's guard dog??

A little further up the highway I took an off-road short cut that started out between jagged rock walls and a gently flowing stream, and eventually turned into beautiful open countryside. After a stop along the way to walk along the water with the girls, we moved on past Wetmore and on up Hwy 67 to Florence. [C]

Steakhouse in Wetmore. They weren't open while I was there.

From Florence we continued north on a road far less traveled. I don’t know if the folks around here consider “Phantom Canyon” [D] a road, but it does show up on a map. Several people since have said, “Nobody warned you not to take that road??” It’s certainly not one you’d want to drive in the pouring rain or in the dead of winter, and I’d highly recommend doing it in an all-wheel drive vehicle or at least a beater truck. It’s a dusty, bumpy, narrow and at times “cliff hanging” road with two extremely small tunnels and most importantly… some amazing vistas!

I saw few other travelers on this road, but met one couple and their two cute dogs along the way!

And at the top of the climb I dropped out into more beautiful, lush countryside and a short while later arrived in the old mining town of Victor.

A little further up the Hwy (67) I came to the town of Cripple Creek. [E] Again, a bit too touristy for me. My favorite find here were the Wild Burrow grazing on the edge of town.

From Cripple Creek I headed northwest on Teller County Road 1, and was surprised when I happened upon the same Llama Ranch I discovered two weeks prior when my daughter and I drove out from Colorado Springs to go hiking. They dazzled me then with their silly antics, some of which can be seen here.

As I pulled over to admire them once again I happened to notice something that took me a moment to register… little feet coming out of the back side of one of them! In the blink of an eye (faster than I could swap lenses) this little guy was born. I stood in the rain and watched as this baby struggled to get control of his long wobbly legs, and was amazed and even touched to see the “extended family” gather around. I had a strong sense that they were not standing there out of curiosity, but to welcome and encourage the youngster. They surrounded him protectively, eyes looking in all directions, and most especially at me. He struggled mightily, and fell several times, but from the moment of his birth it took less than fifteen minutes before he was walking alongside his mother. This is one of the most amazing things I have ever witnessed, and there was not another soul around to see it.

I had a hard time pulling myself away from where I stood, but a big storm was brewing around me, so I moved on. The first person I called was my daughter, Elissa, to tell her how much I wished she’d been with me. The second was my friend Kathy, to give them an update on my day (mainly to let them know I’d survived Phantom Canyon), and she informed me they were under an unheard of tornado warning in Westcliffe!

I continued on up Florissant Valley (35 miles west of Colorado Springs) and came upon another familiar scene, the Hornbeck Homestead. I admired the serenity of this place as I drove past it before, and this time I pulled off the road to take a look around.

The Hornbeck Homestead

The homestead stands in the center of this lush valley very near the town of Florissant. I was delighted to read that it was the home of a strong, determined woman who came to the area with her four children in the 1870s. Claiming land under the Homestead Act, Adeline Hornbek defied traditional gender roles to become the owner of a prosperous ranch. “You go girl!” comes to mind.

In Florissant I turned west on Hwy 24 and traveled toward Buena Vista. [Note: The following day yet another wildfire was raging on this same stretch of highway! To date I have stayed only miles (and hours) ahead of five separate Colorado wildfires.] There’s no shortage of cool old barns and buildings throughout the countryside here. No shortage of dogs either!

White Shepard with the Collegiate Peaks in the background

From Buena Vista [F] I headed south on Hwy 285 and took a long, windy side trip up Chalk Creek Dr/CR 162 to the old ghost town of St. Elmo. [G] It is claimed to be a ghost town, but there are actually people living there. It was a lovely drive, and the little town was quint, but a bit crowded with tourists on that particular Saturday. I’d have enjoyed it a lot more had I been able to stroll the streets on a quieter day.

Cascade Falls along Chalk Creek Dr.

Alpine Lake

Once back on the highway I continued south, and then turned on Hwy 50 toward Salida which sits right on the Arkansas River (mentioned in my previous post). I intended to spend a bit of time checking out this town as well, but they had a big festival going on. Knowing I’d be back to spend more time along this river I decided to pass on through. I followed the river for awhile and then turned down Hwy 69 toward Westcliffe. [H]

Beckwith Ranch near Westcliffe

After a wonderfully full and enchanting day I rolled back into Westcliffe just in time to catch up with Bob and Kathy and some of their good friends for cocktails and a bite to eat. They were full of questions, and after catching my breath (literally) and a few sips of wine, I regaled them with stories of my day.

Colorado… Too Much of a Good Thing???

Posted on June 25, 2012 by fran

I can’t believe how far behind I am on blogging! Not that it’s been all that long since I last wrote, but I have an over-abundance of stories and images to share and my days have been far too full of fun and friends and beauty and adventure and dogs to take the time to sit and research and write. And as is often the case, when there is time I have little or no internet connection. This is still my number one source of frustration on my journey. Not sure how I’ll get caught up, but I’ll do my best!

After putting my daughter back on a plane to Texas I headed to Fort Collins for a big party celebrating the marriage of my good friends Tony and Beth Courter. Although I’m back in Colorado to work on my book, being here to share their joyous day is the reason I made quick tracks back across the country when I did. Congratulations you two. May your journey together be joyous and everlasting.

While in Fort Collins, “camped” on the street next to their home, I found myself itching to take my kayak out. I had not been on the water since I left Savannah two weeks prior, and it was most definitely time. The yearning was so strong that I drove out to a tiny little lake in town, drug my kayak off the car, across a field, down a hill through the brush and dropped it in the water for my shortest excursion to date. I wasn’t expecting to find much worth photographing on this mini adventure, but took my camera anyway… and I was tickled to find one Blue Heron along the shore.

Great Blue Heron, Fort Collins

After a few more days in town I decided it was time to head up the mountain a ways for some real camping, and hopefully some real kayaking too! As it turned out, the county campground I picked (Horsetooth Reservoir) was just over the ridge from day one of what has become one of the states most destructive wildfires. At writing (12 days later) the “High Park” fire has burned through more than 100 square miles and destroyed at least 190 homes.

High Park forest fire the day it started, from Horsetooth Reservoir

I was told the blaze was a safe distance away, so I rolled in and set up camp. Since there were a lot of speedboats on the water that afternoon I decided to wait for the peacefulness of sunrise to take my kayak out. That afternoon Jazzy and Sadie took me for a good walk, I got some work done, had a good dinner and crashed early. I woke up in the middle of the night to smoke in my RV. Enough smoke to wake me from a deep sleep. When I stepped outside I was surprised to find the campground eerily quiet. It was dark as can be, but you could see and smell and “feel” the smoke, and I couldn’t believe I was the only one awake and alarmed by it. The dogs were clearly on edge as well. Although there was little wind, it had clearly shifted. Knowing this could mean the fire shifting directions as well, I got in my car and drove up the hill to see if I could tell where it was. I couldn’t see the blaze from the top of the hill so I figured we were ok for the time being, but I didn’t sleep a wink the rest of the night. By daylight the smoke had shifted north again, and the campground came to life like any other day. After brief consideration I decided I had no desire to camp this close to a raging forest fire. Friendly conversation with the park ranger led me to Carter Lake, a 45 minute drive but probably about 15 miles south as the crow flies. I found a great campsite right on the lake and settled in once again. The next morning I finally got my sunrise cruise in the kayak. I understand they evacuated the campground at Horsetooth Reservoir that day.

Sadie at Carter Lake with smoke from the High Park fire in the background

Jazzy and her new friend Koda

Cruising Carter Lake

Before continuing my journey around the state in search of dogs, we spent a little time with my cousin, Anne, and her family in Lafayette too. The girls and I stopped here for a visit last winter as well, and met their new family pet, an adorable Goldendoodle named Scarlet. I’m not sure I’ve ever met a cuter and sillier pup, and although she has grown in size, she has not outgrown the silliness. Jazzy and Sadie thoroughly enjoy romping around the yard with her!

Scarlet

Countryside in Lafayette

From Lafayette we were off to Westcliffe where my good friends Bob and Kathy Seei own the delightful Over the Brim Inn. I visited them as I embarked on my journey last fall, and fell in love with this little town and the surrounding area. [Previous Post] The route I chose took me past the Royal Gorge which I’d read about, and was told there was a park not too far off the highway where I could leave my RV and walk with my dogs across the impressive bridge that spans the Gorge. Soooo… off the highway we went, up a steep and windy hillside to the Royal Gorge Park. I had in my mind a state park, and was not prepared for what I found there. I followed the signs to park my RV on the fringes of their huge parking lot and walked with the dogs to the entrance. I felt foolish paying $26 to enter the park when all I wanted to do was walk across the bridge and back, but I’d come all that way to do so. I spent less than an hour there and couldn’t get past my disappointment. Maybe it’s just me, but it just feels wrong to make an amusement park out of such a beautiful natural wonder. I didn’t take pictures of what I DIDN’T like about it. The Gorge itself was impressive regardless.

Royal Gorge

Bridge over the Royal Gorge

Thankfully my spirit was revived during the enchanting drive along the Arkansas River. With very few places to pull off in The Beast I can’t begin to do the area justice, and I vow to come back one day and stay for a while at a campground along the river.

Arkansas River

Deer comfortably grazing and lounging right on the edge of town

With my RV parked in Bob and Kathy’s spacious driveway in Westcliffe, and the offer to stay as long as I’d like, I took the time to get to know the area… and the locals. While out to dinner with Kathy my first night in town I met some folks with dogs, who knew some folks with dogs. One introduction led to another, and soon my schedule was full!

Marti Marnitz told me about Judy Anderson, who has three dogs and whose ranch was the background to Comes a Horseman.

Once a Horseman was filmed on this beautiful piece of land

Marti also told me about Shirley Lloyd, who lives on a beautiful piece of land, has several dogs, lots of horses, and five Savannah Cats. I spent an entire morning visiting, walking the land with her and gathering images for my book (and then some!)

Savannah Cat

I took almost a whole day to visit Mission Wolf, a wonderful sanctuary run almost entirely by interns and volunteers. The three main goals of this nature center are to 1) Provide resident wolves with as peaceful and natural life as possible. 2) Connect people with nature and foster concern and support for wild habitat protection. 3) Educate to the extent that wild wolves and humans may co-exist so that sanctuary’s like theirs will become unnecessary.

My day was spent learning about, photographing and bonding with these beautiful creatures. By bonding I mean up close and personal. A small group of us were able to go inside one area where three wolves came around to “meet and greet” us the way they would greet other wolves in the wild… face to face. They want to smell your face and teeth and lick you. I’ll admit it’s a bit intimidating to have a wolf come straight at your face, but we were told by the staff that if we turned away or pulled back, the connection would be missed and that wolf would not return to you. It was a wonderful and cherished experience.

A few more creatures from my day…

I met these little guys right in the road on my way out to Mission Wolf

And before leaving town, I photographed one more big, beautiful dog and a stunning sunset over the Sange de Cristo Mountains.

Lucky

Elissa Joins the Journey

Posted on June 14, 2012 by fran

I have been full time on the road for more than nine months now, and still the hardest part of the journey is being away from my daughter. For those of you who are newcomers to this blog, the idea for this journey began as my daughter, Elissa, prepared for her high school graduation and set her sites on college. For the story behind the inspiration for my journey, read The Fork in the Road.

So far Elissa has joined me in the San Francisco Bay Area for Thanksgiving, and San Diego for part of her winter break. I made my way back to Texas for her spring break, and now… as she steps into summer after finishing her freshman year… she joins me once again. In my last post I left off after picking her up at the Kansas City airport and trekking across Kansas to Colorado. We’re both big fans of this state. First destination was a campground near Colorado Springs, chosen because it was the nearest campground to her paternal aunt, uncle and cousins (AND some hiking spots we wanted to check out) where I could swing a reservation over Memorial Day weekend.

All of my past trips to Colorado were either by plane, or entering from the south out of New Mexico, so I’d never seen the eastern edge of the state. “Edge” is not even an appropriate term. I should say Eastern third of the state. The eastern-most parts of Colorado I’d visited in the past were places like Denver, Sedalia, Boulder and Fort Collins. Elissa and I drove across Kansas on I70 and veered off on Hwy 40 for the last 160 miles to Colorado Springs. (Note to you RVers: NO NOT take this route! You know those bumps in the highway… those breaks in the pavement that you’d hardly notice in a car… the rhythmic kathump, kathump, kathump that becomes a gut wrenching SLAM, SLAM, SLAM in an RV… you know the ones. This entire highway is made up of those bumps!!)

The entire drive out Hwy 40 looked an awful lot like the midwest to me. I kept having to remind myself, “We’re not in Kansas anymore!” I was thoroughly exhausted and relieved when we arrived at The Garden of the Gods Campground, but once settled we didn’t waste a minute before heading out to hike through this lovely place. I only wish we’d had more time before sunset!

The next day we headed up Hwy 24 past the town of Florissant to hike out to Paradise Cove Swimming Hole. On the way, as we were driving through a beautiful valley in heavy winds, I was pointing out a field of Llama when they suddenly started loping across the pasture, locks tousling in the wind, playfully nipping at one another’s flanks. It was quite unexpected and really hilarious. I’ve never seen Llama do anything but stand around… and spit!

The entire drive was beautiful, and fun… so busy singing and laughing we missed a few turns without worry. We hiked with the dogs through some nice terrain and across a creek to the swimming hole. Our sea level lungs labored a bit on the steep inclines, but the hike was well worth it when we arrived at this lovely, natural oasis. Clearly a popular place, as we met several people (and dogs) on our way in and out.

It was not hot enough and way too early in the season to enjoy swimming, but after watching a few other college age kids jump from the cliffs, Elissa couldn’t help herself!

Next stop was Rocky Mountain National Park, Aspenglen Campground. I could write volumes about the beauty of this park, but I won’t because I’m already lagging way behind on his post. Suffice it to say… OMG Gorgeous! I’ve only been here twice, but I’m madly in love with the beauty of this park.

The afternoon we arrived we opted for a short hike… Chasm Falls, off Fall River Road…

View from Fall River Road, Rocky Mountain National Park

Photo by Elissa

Chasm Falls, near Fall River Road, Rocky Mountain National Park

Photo by Elissa

We stopped several times at this owl nest near our campground and never saw any more than this fuzzy little guys head.

Fall River and lots of critters ran right through our campground…

Turkey hen and chicks

The hike we picked for the following day was a 615′ climb in just under two miles and took us past some beautiful scenery including Bear Lake, Nymph Lake, Dream Lake and finally Emerald Lake at an elevation of 10,090′.

Dream Lake

Emerald Lake

View from Bear Lake Road in Rocky Mountain National Park

The time spent with Elissa was precious to me and it was, as always, hard to put her back on a plane to Texas. My hope is to get her out on my journey as often as possible so that she can see more of the amazing beauty I’m experiencing. For now, I continue through Colorado on my own, gathering images of dogs for my next book, The Mountain Dogs of Colorado.

Still High In/On the Rockies

Posted on March 6, 2012 by fran

I’ve been in Colorado for more than three weeks now, and it almost feels as though I’ve moved here. It’s strange to be away from my RV for this long, but I am glad I decided to leave it behind in Sedona. Although most of the roads have been clear, I have dealt with some pretty slick and icy conditions too, and during those times I was glad to be in my trusty little AWD Honda.

The other advantage of traveling without my home is that I’ve been invited to spend time in the homes of a few friends along the way. The girls and I were delighted to stay with my friend Carol (mentioned in a Sailing the Mountains of Colorado) while in the Aspen area.

My previous post took me into Colorado, through Durango and Telluride and then to Aspen. From there I headed toward the Vail and Breckenridge areas in search of more subjects for The Mountain Dogs of Colorado. Capturing the images for this book is a little trickier than The Dogs of Central Park. Not that there wasn’t a whole lot of work and travel involved with that project, but all I had to do was go into the park, especially before 9am, and the dogs were everywhere.

With this project I’m moving from one community to the next, and although there are plenty of dogs, they’re not necessarily standing in front of the iconic Colorado backgrounds I’m seeking, and if they are… it may be the wrong time of day. I’m rising to the challenge though, and it’s been fun connecting with the dogs and dog owners along the way. While in the Breckenridge area I contacted Good Times Adventures Dog Sledding and was invited to come out and spend the morning photographing their dogs. I was greeted by Sarah, who took me by snowmobile out to the “dog yard”… home of more than 150 Siberian Huskies. Standing in the midst of so many “wolf-like” dogs might have been a little intimidating, but none were in the least bit aggressive. On the contrary, they were all quite friendly and the biggest challenge was “sharing the love” with so many dogs while carrying my camera. Most of the adults were spread throughout this large compound, each with their own shelter and chained just far enough apart to keep them separated but with plenty of space to move about.

I got to play with one adorable four week old puppy… far too cute for words. And there were quite a few older pups too, separated by litter in large runs, eagerly awaiting their turn at the sleds. I have no idea what’s involved in training these dogs, but I have to assume it’s a pack thing. When a new dog is introduced to a team they must learn pretty quickly from the rest of the pack. One thing is for sure… they LOVE their jobs!

While there I enjoyed another horse encounter. Those of you who have been following my journey for awhile know my love of horses. (I Heart Horses) Right next to the Dog Yard was a corral of horses who pull passengers on local sleigh rides. Three of them were near the fence and friendly enough as I walked up to see them. The fourth stood back among the trees… quietly watching. I took a few pictures, but mostly just stood watching her in return.

After awhile she slowly started walking my way. This beautiful animal was BIG… a draft horse, one with a hint of fear or flight in her eyes despite the fact that she was allowing me to touch her. Her ears were back, then forward, then one back and one forward, then back again. She was obviously a little conflicted about the encounter. I stood with her for a long time… sharing the space, quietly talking to her and stroking her muzzle when she’d let me. It was clear she didn’t want me to go because when I finally started moving back toward the dogs she followed me along the fence line. After photographing a couple teams coming in and calling it quits I walked back past the corral, where she waited at the fence, and shared a few final moments. When I said my good byes and headed down the trail she stood quietly… watching me go.

From a pet friendly motel in Silverthorne I worked my way between Breckenridge, Copper Mountain, Frisco (cute town!) and Vail area. My last evening there I made arrangements for the following morning to photograph the Avalanche Rescue Dogs at Beaver Creek and four “Newfies” in Minturn, both west of me, before moving on to Fort Collins in the other direction. Unfortunately I woke up to I-70 closed in both directions after a heavy snowfall the night before. With my day disappearing on me and westbound still closed I decided to head on east. It was a white knuckle drive on ice and thick slush all the way to Denver and thankfully a little clearer from there to Fort Collins. There I was greeted by the smiling faces of my friend Tony and his lovely new wife Beth. My girls and I spent almost a week enjoying their wonderful hospitality, their boys Zach and Tyler, and their cool old black lab Reggie.

Tony put me in touch with several of his friends who owned dogs and I was able to meet up with most of them while there. I met Kathy whose dogs (and those of some friends) were practicing for field trials they had coming up the following weekend. This was a new experience for me. Trying to keep these dogs framed and in focus as they were running through the tall grasses, WHILE walking quickly on uneven ground with a camera in front of my face, was challenging to say the least.

Before I had a clue what was going to happen, this dog jumped HIGH while scaring up a bird.

The following morning I joined Tony’s friends Sue and Matt and their dogs Taku and Ollie for a beautiful hike at Gateway Park, just outside of Fort Collins.

And later in the day his friend Vern picked me up for a long, beautiful drive up Cameron Pass to photograph his dog Koda. It was extremely windy at the top, with gusts we were guessing to be near 70mph, causing white out conditions as it blew the new snow around. The three of us braved these nearly unbearable conditions just long enough to get some great shots of Koda, the best of which were between the gusts.

The next morning I drove to Loveland to meet Tony’s friend Stephanie, who was kind enough to bring her two young children and their dog Brisco out for a bone chilling morning shoot.

After saying good bye to Tony’s family I took a detour through Estes Park on my way to Boulder. I found a few beautiful dogs in Estes Park, one being the largest dog I have ever encountered, a Giant Alaskan Malamute by the name of Mukluk. This big pup weighs in at nearly 200 pounds! I mentioned this breed a few posts back after meeting one for the first time in Jerome Arizona. He was, at the time, the largest dog I’d ever seen. I never dreamed I’d meet one even bigger!

That afternoon I arrived at the home of my second cousin, Anne Sabott, who I knew best when I was small girl in Nebraska. Since my family’s move to Washington I’ve seen her only a handful of times, but none the less the girls and I were welcomed with open arms (and dog treats). Anne and I were in the midst of getting caught up on the years gone by when her husband, David, convinced me (without a great deal of effort I might add) to go with him to their condo in Breckenridge for a day of skiing after their best snowfall of the year. Seriously… how could I pass up that offer? Friday morning we woke up to fresh snow and sunshine, and although the blue skies were quickly replaced by cold wind and more snow, we had a marvelous day skiing together. We arrived back in Boulder (Lafayette actually) early enough on Saturday for me to get a little more time with the rest of the Sabott family, and a few more dogs, before departing on Sunday for my final Colorado destination… Steamboat Springs!

The Sabott Labradoddle, Scarlet

Because my days have been so full, and my movement from town to town almost constant, it has taken me several days to get this blog post written. I finished my final day of photographing the dogs of winter on a beautiful day in Steamboat Springs and am stepping out the door to Moab now. A few more images from beautiful Colorado…