Back to the Carolina’s

Posted on June 6, 2013 by fran

North Carolina was one of several states I traveled through shortly after “Sandy” blew through the east last fall. Not that it was a very colorful autumn to begin with, but what was left of the color was stripped from the trees before I arrived here the first week of November. I was horribly disappointed from a photographic point of view, and I vowed that I would return. My desire to get back through the Smoky Mountain area is what prompted me to hover in Florida for the winter instead of heading west as I had planned. I couldn’t bare the thought of capturing so much diverse beauty across the country and have nothing to show for it in several states I knew to be far prettier than what I witnessed.

I should say I have no regrets in the long run. If one has to hover for the winter, Florida is a pretty darn good place to do it! In lieu of autumn color, I’m enjoying the freshness of spring on my journey back north. As you know from my last post, I was quite taken with an unexpected beauty I found in the mountains of Georgia. From there I traveled through South Carolina, camping for a couple of nights in Devil’s Fork State Park. After several hours of kayaking in heavy winds on Lake Jocassee, I went in search of some hikes and waterfalls. Unfortunately most of the trails were closed at 5:00 (or at least the parking lots were) so I only made it out to one! I did think it was a bit odd that they pulled in the welcome mats that early with plenty of daylight left, but assume budget and staffing is to blame.

Issaqueena Falls, South Carolina

While in route to the hikes I didn’t get to take, I did a double-take at the sight of this big ‘ol guy. As I often do with animals, I took a few pictures as I advanced (you never know at what moment they will flee), but when I squatted down for the perfect shot THROUGH the fence he didn’t run, nor snort and paw at the earth. He stood up and slowly ambled over to greet me, and actually welcomed a gentle face rub. No bull! Well, actually, quite a LOT of bull!!

Sitting Bull

“You looking at me???”

While camped in Florida I met Trish and RD Daniels, a fun and active couple who live in Newland, NC. They invited me to visit on my way north, assuring me that I’d love the area. They also graciously offered to make arrangements for me at a very quiet campsite right along Elk River. How could I pass that up??? Some of the very best of what I’ve seen across this country was at the suggestion of a someone I meet along the way. (Meet Trish and RD here… Memories of Florida)

There was one special place I really wanted to see on my way north though, and it was close enough to my route to want it all the more. When Elissa flew out to visit me in Asheville last fall I took her on a day hike out to Triple Falls in Dupont State Forest. We enjoyed the hike and fresh air with the girls, but again… knew it would be much prettier at a different time of year. I wanted to take her back out there, if only in spirit!

In mapping it, I found that traveling through Caesar’s Head State Park (SC) was the shortest distance to get there, but definitely not a route for a monster motorhome! Sooooo, I set about locating any businesses with large parking lots near the turn-off to Caesar’s Head. There was very little to chose from, but when I zoomed in on the satellite view on Google Maps I found a couple of “spots” that gave me hope. A few phone calls led me to the manager of a small and conveniently located restaurant who said, “No problem. We’re closed that day anyway. Your motorhome will be safe here.” Yay! I sure like nice people!

From Caesar’s Head State Park, South Carolina

Triple Falls was one of the locations used in the movie The Hunger Games. And, as you can see if you compare it to the pictures in this post, it looks much different in the spring than it did in late autumn. I’d still love to see it surrounded by vibrant fall colors one day!!

Triple Falls, Dupont National Forest, North Carolina

Knowing how much I love to hike, especially in scenic places, Trish started a list as soon as I told her I was coming to visit. By the time I arrived she had a full page of activities she thought I’d enjoy, many of which we tackled during my short visit!!

The night I arrived at my great little campsite along the river, she and RD drove down the mountain to see me, and whisked me out to Elk River Falls.

Elk River Falls

The following morning Trish and I did a hike up to the top of Table Rock.The 360 degree view was spectacular!

View from the top of Table Rock, North Carolina

View from the top of Table Rock

From the top of Table Rock

We did a second hike that day, out to Upper Creek Falls in Pisgah National Forest. Twice we took our shoes off and forged the river to reach another trail. Both times I considered how exhilirating it would be to slip into one of the cool pools of fresh mountain water.

Upper Creek Falls, Pisgah National Forest

Upper Creek Falls

On the trail to Upper Creek Falls

The following morning we drove out to Grandfather Mountain where Trish had arranged for me to meet their director of communications, Landis Taylor. Landis met us at the gate and took us on a personal tour on the mountain, starting at the top. I should add that it was a VERY windy day, with gusts nearing 60mph at the summit. The moment our car doors were torn from our hands we knew the hike/climb up to Calloway Peak, which we had planned for the day, was not likely to happen. It’s far too exposed AND steep!

We went so far as to move our cars around to a protected side of the visitors center. As we were walking (with effort) toward the Swinging Bridge, Landis told us a funny story. She walked out into that very parking lot to meet up with a news crew who had come out to do a story in even higher winds, and something the reporter was holding (a scarf I think) blew right out of her hands. Landis went racing after it and, with the cameras rolling, was literally swept off her feet! Needless to say she made the evening news!

Windy road up Grandfather Mountain

View from the summit on Grandfather Mountain

As windy as it was, I couldn’t resist the urge to walk across the mile high, 228′ long “Swinging Bridge”. Not an experience for someone who is afraid of heights nor, on that particular day, for the weak of heart (or for that matter, the light of weight!) I was holding on all the way across and back. That didn’t stop me from pulling my camera out for a few pictures!

Holding on tight in high winds on Grandfather Mountain suspension bridge

Gorge under the Swinging Bridge on Grandfather Mountain (note my tiny shadow on bridge for perspective)

Landis then led us to the Grandfather Mountain Animal Habitats. These natural enclosures are home to two cougars and four black bear, along with some river otter and white tailed deer. Their newest additions are two bald eagle named Griffin and Isis.

Bald Eagles, Griffin and Isis

Our delightful hostess, Landis, led us farther up the path and told us about Grandfather Mountain’s Green Initiative while strolling past the Earth-friendly Fudge Shop. Of course I had to check this out! It’s rare I indulge in this kind of calorie/sugar high, but yummmmmm!

Next stop was the Nature Museum which, amongst many other things, is home to the finest collection of North Carolina gems and minerals available on public display.

Our only disappointment on Grandfather Mountain was not being able to do our intended hike, but we knew we would be back in a day or two for that, so we drove away happy. I was highly impressed with this place, not only for the extraordinary views and trails, but for their efforts to preserve the natural habitat and keep it all earth friendly while hosting thousands of visitors each year.

A big thank you to Landis Taylor, for the informative tour and amusing stories during our visit there!!!!

From Grandfather Mountain we headed out for a safer hiking option for the day… South Harpers Creek. The long trail through the woods led us to the top of Harper Creek Falls with a stunning vertical drop I didn’t dare to get any closer to than this…

Harper Creek Falls

Farther up the trail (and a safe distance from the main fall) we forged yet another river crossing in order to hike out to a breathtaking bluff (literally takes your breath away!) overlooking the falls. Getting any closer to the edge was NOT an option, and the image really doesn’t do justice to the magnitude of the height of the bluff, nor the sheer drop of the falls.

Birds eye view of Harper Creek Falls

The following day we finally got our hike on Grandfather Mountain! It was still windy, but with gusts nearing only 50mph it seemed like “child’s play” compared to the day before. What the heck! We’re a couple of brave, sure-footed women right??? Our hike/climb up Grandfather Trail would lead us to the top of Calloway peak, the highest point along the Blue Ridge Escarpment at an elevation of 5, 946 feet.

The first thing we encountered as we set out was a sign warning us how difficult the trail was. I shoved my hat (for fear of losing it) and my camera (for fear of breaking it) into my backpack and we headed out. I’ll let the images tell the rest of the tale. Keep in mind these scenes ARE the trail, and in many you’ll see the blue arrows marking the way.

Note the big red bold prints... "This trail is very difficult!"

Read the sign. :-)

One of several ladders on the steep climb up Grandfather Trail.

View from the top of Calloway Peak

The wind gusts were intense at every exposed place on the trail, but nothing like they were at the top, where we literally crawled and crab-walked across the narrower boulders as we neared the peak.

Trish safely crawling off the peak. You GO girl!

I had to stick around awhile longer just to take in the stunning view. We had been told that on a clear day you could see all the way to Charlotte! I wouldn’t be surprised. While there it occurred to me that I hiked to much higher elevations in the North Cascades, Sierra Nevada’s and Rockies, but never to the “top”, where the view led to infinity for 360 degrees. There was always another higher peak nearby.

Panoramic view from Calloway Peak

That little blue speck at the top of the ladder is Trish, climbing down

There was more to enjoy along the trail than the stunning view…

Moss covered tree

Trillium on the trail

Wake Robin Trillium

And we lived to tell about it! Actually, the hike was exhilarating, and got my heart beating a little faster a time or two, but we took those places cautiously and never felt unsafe. It left me wanting to do it again actually! And I will… when I return… which I will.

A very special thank you to Trish and RD, for the invitation to visit their beautiful part of the country, for their hospitality, and especially for Trish’s planning on my behalf. There was more to my visit that, for lack of space I am unable to share here, but I am grateful for every bit of it! Many thanks!!

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As a side note I have to add that this post about my time in North Carolina is lagging behind the experience by about three weeks. My travels often take me off-grid, where I have no wifi and often no cell service. I LOVE those places, and relish the breaks from being so “plugged in”, but the experiences are always followed by a bit of stress as I scramble to catch up. I rely heavily on my cell phone and internet connection for communicating, researching, planning, and blogging (that’s making a very short list out of a painfully long one!)

Don’t get me wrong. I have no regrets other than falling back into the old habit of bringing needless stress into my life. I enjoy sharing my journey, and am grateful to know so many are traveling along with me virtually. It is you faithful “followers” who give me a sense of obligation to be consistent with my postings. In order to relieve myself of some self imposed stress, let me just say this… if I go quiet for awhile, know that I am most likely off-grid, and having the time of my life… at one with nature!!

If you enjoy following, but get tired of checking and not finding a new post, please remember that you can sign up for email notifications so you’ll know when a new post goes live. Look for the email symbol (envelope) at the top right of the home page.

Remember that I enjoy hearing your thoughts in the comment section at the bottom of each post, and really love it when my friends “like” and share via Facebook, Twitter or whatever other means you choose! (The buttons at the bottom of the page make that sooo easy!) And if you haven’t been there yet, please visit (and “like” if you like) my Journey In Focus Facebook page.

Thanks again for following!!!!

There Are Mountains in Georgia!!!

Posted on May 19, 2013 by fran

Wow! I can’t believe it’s been a month since I rolled out of Florida and into Georgia. I’ve been saving up my Georgia experiences thinking it would be easy to condense them into one blog post, but I found myself enjoying the state so much I stayed longer than anticipated. Now I have the difficult task of whittling down the highlights and images. That’s never easy for me because I want to share everything!

I never would have guessed that Georgia was such a mountainous state. These mountains don’t rival peaks of the Cascade, Sierra Nevada, and Rocky Mountain ranges, but they are spectacular just the same. What I thought would be a fairly brief journey through Georgia turned into a few weeks, as I “feasted” on the the scenery… the forests, lakes, rivers and waterfalls… while they were brought exuberantly back to life by the wonders of spring!

At the recommendation of some of my new friends in Florida I planned my first stay near Calloway Gardens in Pine Mountain. I usually opt to camp in state and national parks when possible. Most don’t provide full hook-ups (utilities) and they rarely have wifi available, but they all sit in the midst of nature. Camping next to a lake or stream, easy access to hiking trails, and meeting friendly neighbors who enjoy the same is worth the inconvenience of using the “dump station” on my way out of a campground, and having to find a nearby coffee shop to take care of business online.

My first Georgia campsite was at F.D. Roosevelt State Park, just outside of Pine Mountain. I managed to score an enviable lakefront site that I was thrilled to call home for a few days. While there I took Jazzy and Sadie for several hikes in the woods, visited Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s “Little White House”, and enjoyed watching a pair of geese and their adorable fuzzy yellow offspring!

Lake Delano in F.D. Roosevelt State Park, GA

F.D. Roosevelt State Park, Pine Mountain GA

My campsite along Lake Delano

F.D. Roosevelt State Park, Pine Mountain Georgia

Momma goose and her babies on Lake Delano

Chillin’ and Grillin’ at home in F.D. Roosevelt State Park (self portrait)

One neighbor I met, Joe, was on a solo exodus in nature while contemplating his future, his career, and in particular some choices he felt he had to make. Was it fate that brought him casting and reeling past my campsite? Our conversation started light…

“Hey… good evening.”

“Hi. I’ve been following this one bass all the way from my campsite.”

“Hmmmmm… Is his name Walter?”

My attempt at humor was met with a blank “who the heck is Walter” expression.

“Walter! You know… the trophy size bass that Norman pursues for years in the movie On Golden Pond.”

Still a blank expression.

“Ummmm… well… ok. I guess it’s an old movie.” I say as I glance away concealing a smile and only a slight bit of embarrassment.

We spent a fair bit of time chatting over the next few days… about life, about choices, and the importance of staying true to yourself and your convictions. I was truly impressed at the depth and understanding of this young man for his age.

A few days ago I came across a plaque with a quote on it that made me think of Joe and immediately snapped a shot of it with my cell phone and sent it to him.

“It’s never too late to be what you might have been.” ~Eleanor Roosevelt

Lake Delano, FD Roosevelt State Park, Georgia

Joe, in pursuit of “Walter”

I spent one full day at Calloway Gardens. Unfortunately I was about a week or two late for their colorful azalea blooms, but found that there was still much to enjoy about this place. Walking amidst thousands of butterflies in the Day Butterfly Center was a delightful experience.

Day Butterfly Center, Calloway Gardens, Pine Mountain GA

New arrivals emerging from their chrysalides

Paper Kite Butterfly, Calloway Gardens

They also have a very nice “Birds of Prey” show which, of course, I couldn’t pass up. It was a good and educational show, and I was pleasantly surprised to see a Red-shouldered Hawk featured along with a few other hawks and owls. This is the same type of hawk that I managed to untangle from fishing line and hold for a few moments while kayaking in Florida. (Story and picture here… Friends Along Florida Waterways)

Red-shouldered Hawk, Calloway Gardens

Barred Owl, Calloway Gardens

Barred Owl

Azaleas across a pond in Calloway Gardens

Colorful leaves, Calloway Gardens

To top of the day, I indulged myself in their Treetop Adventure and Zip-line course. This was a rather intense obstacle course stretching from tree top to tree top, and I was glad to be wearing a safety harness as I wobbled and swung and teetered from one challenge to the next. I did the entire course with a GoPro video camera attached to my helmet, but have yet to find time to edit the lengthy clip. (Hope to add it soon!!!)

After Pine Mountain I made yet another pit stop in Atlanta to visit my friends Eddie Tapp and Judy Host. I’ve written about these dear friends a few times before. (Fellow photographers and kindred spirits) It’s rare that I plan my route to include large cities, but there’s no way I’d pass through the state of Georgia without visiting these two special people. Thank you, my friends, for hosting me and my girls once again!

From Atlanta I made my way to Vogel State Park at the southern fringe of the Smoky Mountains. Here I scored another awesome campsite right along Wolf Creek, and spent my days hiking trails to one waterfall after another.

Wolf Creek, Vogel State Park

Trees in the mist near Vogel State Park, Georgia

Anna Ruby Falls, Unicoi State Park, Georgia

The fresh green of spring in Vogel State Park

‘Tis the season! While hiking through the park along Trahlyta Lake one rainy morning I came upon this mother goose protectively sheltering her babies from the rain. I didn’t know until I passed by again how many there were!

Momma goose and babies in the rain, Vogel State Park

Momma and her babies AFTER the rain!!

Wild Iris, Vogel State Park

Trahlyta Falls, Vogel State Park

Helton Creek Falls near Vogel State Park

Dog Hobble, near Vogel State Park

Upper Desoto Falls near Vogel State Park

Lower Desoto Falls, near Vogel State Park

My campsite along Wolf Creek, Vogel State Park

My next stop was not too far down the road… Tallulah Gorge State Park. I arrived and set up camp in the pouring rain, which is never fun but goes with the territory from time to time. I accept it, deal with it, and then count my blessings as I peel off my soggy attire while stepping into a dry motorhome instead of crawling into a damp tent. I did plenty of that, sometimes for days on end, while living in Washington.

The following morning I hiked the North Rim trail with Jazzy and Sadie, and enjoyed several overlooks along the way. Knowing they were not allowed on the suspension bridge I set out on my own that afternoon to hike the South Rim trail, then down 1099 steps to the Hurricane Falls lookout point at the bottom of the gorge (and back up again!!), and back across the suspension bridge, which stretches high over the gorge floor, to the north rim and my campsite beyond.

Tallulah Gorge

L’Eau d’Or Falls (french for Water of Gold) Tallulah Gorge

Hurricane Falls, Tallulah Gorge

Steps to the bottom of Tallulah Gorge (1099 of them!)

This 1000 ft deep gorge is absolutely stunning, and well worth a visit if you ever find yourself in the area. Unfortunately the hikes I’d planned on doing down to and around the bottom of the gorge were closed due to weather and trail conditions, so I cut my stay one day short and headed off to my next destination… Lake Chatuge in Hiawassee.

View of the southern Smoky Mountains from a turn out on Highway 76 between Clayton and Hiawassee.

I have to admit the campground gods have been looking favorably upon me lately. I scored yet another great campsite, right on the waterfront of Lake Chatuge, at the Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds. Moments after setting up camp I dropped my kayak in the water for the first time since leaving Florida. I did find myself missing the birds I grew to love along the Florida waterways, and thought it almost comical when I remembered there was no need to keep a lookout for alligator anymore. I was a bit startled when a goose came racing off the water and flew right at me, but realized it was my granola bar he was after, not me. I’m guessing he’s been fed a wee bit too much people food!

Another great campsite, Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds, Hiawassee GA

Hungry goose chasing me down for my granola bar while kayaking on Chatuge Lake

Although most of the Rhododendrons had not yet reached bloom, I enjoyed hiking through Hamilton Garden located right there at the fairgrounds.

Trail hike in Hamilton Rhododendron Gardens at Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds

Georgia Mountain Fairgrounds, Hiawassee Georgia

Rhododendron, Hamilton Rhododendron Gardens

Rhododendron bud,
Hamilton Rhododendron Garden

Iris, Hamilton Rhododendron Garden

Brasstown Bald, the highest peak in Georgia, was only about fifteen miles down the road, so I made a point of checking it out my first day in town. I was so entranced by the 360 degree view that I set my alarm for early the following morning so I could reach the parking lot well before sunrise, giving me time to hike to the top in time to capture the first light of morning. As it happened it was a very foggy morning, so no “sunrise” to speak of, but the foggy layers woven between the mountains held a mystical beauty all their own.

Afternoon view from the top of Brasstown Bald

Early morning from Brasstown Bald

Morning fog from Brasstown Bald

On the trail back down Brasstown Bald

Sadie and Jazzy enjoying the hike with me on Brasstown Bald

As it happened, my friend (and Canon contact during my time on their elite team of “Explorers of Light”) Steve Inglima was visiting his brother not far from me in North Carolina. He took the time to come down for a visit one afternoon, and showed me some of the sites I had not yet seen. The tiny little community of Brasstown was one of them. Field of the Woods in Murphy was another. The intense religious conviction that went into the creation of this place reminded me of another place I visited while journeying through southern California… Salvation Mountain. Thank you Steve, for taking the time. It was wonderful to see you!

Little front porch in Brasstown Georgia

Field of the Woods

There’s a song that’s been slow dancing through my head since the morning I crossed over into the Carolina’s, and I can still hear old Willie now… singing “Georgia on my Mind.”

One last peaceful image of a foggy morning from my campsite on Chatuge Lake…

Foggy morning on Lake Chatuge

My Favorite Places Revisited

Posted on April 21, 2013 by fran

Hello friends! I know some of you have been wondering where I’ve been. Amazingly, until a couple days ago I hadn’t moved in nearly four months. My last few blog posts were about my time in a special part of Florida… Homosassa/Crystal River… and in particular, the wonderful experiences I had and the special friends I met there. My time was so full that I decided to take a little hiatus from blogging… give myself permission to let it go for awhile, breath and enjoy the days. Letting go of life’s pressures WAS after all, one of the purposes of this journey.

So I kayaked, and did road trips, and spent time with friends, and walked the dogs a LOT! And I worked on other projects, including a “slideshow” from my first fifteen months on the road. THAT was one hellava big task! But it was inspiring, even to me.

After more than 23,000 miles on the road, not to mention hundreds on foot and nearly that many by kayak, I was overwhelmed. More importantly… I was grateful. I was grateful for the gift bestowed on all of us of this great land. I was grateful for the spirit it took to put myself out here. And I was grateful for the vision to see and capture the stunning vistas, and incredible animals, and memorable moments… to share.

I’ve been asked numerous questions while on my journey, the most amusing of which is, “You drive that big thing… YOURSELF?” Honestly, it never occurred to me that I couldn’t. The number one question though, is “Of all the places you’ve been, where were your favorites?”

While working on my slideshow I was inspired to consider this question, pick my favorites, and share my answers with you. Picking my favorites was harder than it might seem, for a number of reasons. First of all, it’s limited to places I’ve been on my journey. The choices may also be skewed by other factors… weather, season, how much time I had in any given place, and what I was able to do with that time. There’s no doubt in my mind that I’ve yet to see some of my favorite places, and that some of the places I’ve seen might have been favorites if only I’d had good weather, or more time.

Five favorites seemed like a fair number, but I constantly found myself wanting to add more. And of course… there were an overwhelming number of images from these places to share in one post. My remedy to that is to share a few select images, and the links (in blue) to my writings about these places. By following the links to the pages you will not only see more of the beauty, but read about the experiences as well. I also decided not to limit myself to one “stopover” point, one town, or one park, but rather “areas” that I feel comfortable grouping together as “a place”.

Keep in mind also, that I grew up in Washington State and lived in California for more than fifteen years. Both are amazingly beautiful and diverse states, but neither is on my list simply because they were not in the least bit new to me. They are both well deserving of top honors though, and if you read my posts about them you’ll understand why. (Just type Washington or California in the search bar at the top of my home page.)

So… here we go… in random order;

Upstate New York- I traveled into New York State through the southern tip of Canada (Niagara Falls area), and almost hate to admit how astonished I was as I made my way across the state. From Letchworth State Park, through the Finger Lakes region, and into the Adirondack Mountains. The landscape was lush… the lakes and waterfalls gorgeous!

Middle Falls in Letchworth State Park

Watkins Glen Gorge, Watkins Glen New York

Enfield Creek, Robert H. Treman State Park

Seventh Lake, New York

Ausable River near Lake Placid

Read my tales from Upstate New York at these links.

Crossing Into New York

Come Along on a Walk with Me!

Where Fairy Tales are Born

Trips and Trails and Puppy Dog Tales

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Oregon Coast- Having grown up in Washington the Oregon coastline was not entirely new to me, but I had not seen it since I was young and never in it’s entirety. I did a multi-day side trip to see the northern part of this coastline while I was home in Washington visiting family. Cannon Beach was the first place Jazzy and Sadie ever set foot on a beach, and they LOVED it. They ran and romped and played gleefully in the soft sand and cool breeze.

I traveled the southern part of this coastline when I continued on my journey after more than a month in Washington. My camp spots were almost always within the sound of the surf. The peaceful sound of the waves rolling rhythmically into shore is something I’ll never grow tired of. And of course the dogs loved our crisp morning walks in the sand. I did ride out one of the most brutal storms I’ve endured on this journey while camped along the shore in Gold Beach, but by morning the skies were beautiful, and everything even fresher than the day before!

Cannon Beach

Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach

Oregon Sand Dunes near Coos Bay

After the storm, Oregon coast

Oregon Coast

Read and see more here!

The Oregon Coast

When I Think it Can’t Possibly Get Any Better…

Stormy Weather

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Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks- Where do I begin! Between the stunning vistas, the many hiking trails, and the amazing variety and abundance of wildlife I was in paradise between these two parks. Not only once, but twice I traveled here on my journey. It was so hard to drive away from here that I pushed back my departure three days in a row. To put it simply… mountains, lakes, rivers, bison, antelope, and moose. Lots of ‘em!

Autumn color before the Grand Tetons.

Bull Bison and Old Faithful, Yellowstone National Park

Osprey bringing fish to the nest, near West Yellowstone

On a day ride from West Yellowstone up to the Continental Divide and the border of Idaho.

Old barn and the Grand Tetons from Mormon Row.

Jackson Lake and the Grand Tetons.

Lots of goodies to see and read about here!

Sunrise on The Tetons

Teton and Yellowstone National Parks

The Road to Yellowstone

Tetons… Way Beyond Grand

Full Circle Through Eden

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Upper Peninsula of Michigan- I’d always heard how beautiful the “U.P.” is, and I swore one day I’d get there. When the time finally came I wasn’t disappointed. I’m glad I allowed myself ample time to experience this place from west to east. My only regret was leaving before the turning of the autumn leaves. All the more reason to come back one day. One thing that will always stand out to me was having to keep telling myself, while watching the waves crash ashore on Lake Superior, “This is not an ocean!”

Eagle Harbor Lighthouse, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

MichiganPictured Rocks along Lake Superior, Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore along Lake Superior, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

A hike in the woods, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

Lower Tahquamenon Falls, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

Crisp Point Lighthouse, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

Yakin’ with Jazzy and Sadie in Tahquamenon Falls State Park

Beautiful images and some good stories here…

Pure Michigan- The Upper Peninsula (part one)

Pure Michigan- The Upper Peninsula (part two)

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The Waterways of Florida- I’m writing this post a day after departing Florida for the second time on my journey. Last spring I spent a month traveling throughout the state, mostly under a storm cloud. I made camp in numerous places between the western gulf shores, the Keys, and all the way up the east coast. This time around I spent more than four months hovering south of “old man winter”. Most of that time was spent camped in one place… Nature’s Resort in Homosassa. Before my arrival in Homosassa the longest I camped in one place was a week. (My average stay was 3-4 days!) It was not my intention to stay in one place, but the price was right and there was no shortage of beautiful places to see!

Ichetucknee Springs

Great Egret flying over Santa Fe River

Sunset from my campsite on Grassy Key

My first Manatee encounter, Homosassa River

Great Blue Heron flies over Halls River

Kayaking with friends at Three Sisters Springs, Crystal River

Read all about this marvelous state! (These posts are from spring of 1012 and winter of 2013)

Rolling Into Spring

New Sights and New Routines

Bird is the Word

Between Spring Showers

Final Days in Florida (2012)

Florida Take Two

The Warmth of Homosassa

More Beauty Around Homosassa

Friends Along Florida Waterways

Memories of Florida

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There were several other places vying for the top five spots here, and well worth mentioning. As stated, Washington State… in particular the North Cascades, the Olympic Peninsula, and the San Juan Islands in the Puget Sound. California… the northern coastline, Redwood Forest, Yosemite and Sonoma Valley. Glacier National Park… WOW! Colorado… the entire western two-thirds! Sedona… one of the most unimaginably stunning places I’ve ever seen. Utah… from Arches National Park all the way down through Canyonlands National Park and beyond was breathtaking!! (My posts about all of these places can be accessed through the search bar at the top of my home page.)

While working on the slideshow I was reminded not only of the beautiful places I have been, but also the unforgettable experiences I’ve had along the way. Seeing old friends and meeting new ones will always be at the top of that list. But the list goes on… kayaking amongst groups of dolphin, swimming with Manatee, getting up close with the mountain goats in Glacier National Park, an amazing wolf encounter that left me breathless, witnessing the birth of a baby Llama, rescuing and holding a hawk in Florida, and not only sharing more than 23,000 miles on the road, but hiking hundreds of miles of trails and shores with the two best dogs I know… Jazzy and Sadie.

And of course… spending time with my daughter, Elissa, at numerous beautiful spots across the country is one of those special blessings I could not have done without.

Kayaking with my girl!

Virginia… Safe Haven and Great Friends

Posted on November 22, 2012 by fran

I’m sitting in the home of yet another photographer friend, Rainy Chastine, in Fayetteville Georgia… here to celebrate Thanksgiving, but blogging about my time in Virginia a few weeks ago. When it comes to giving thanks I have to say that my wonderful friends rank high on the list. I’ve said it many times before, but I don’t think I could state it enough… I am blessed to have so many great friends in my life, and I’m grateful for the time I’ve been able to spend with so many of you!!

As you know from my last post, my first stop in Virginia was at the home of my long-time friends, Scott and Bonnie Salem. They have a spacious property high on a hill overlooking the Virginia countryside, with plenty of room for The Beast. Jazzy and Sadie felt right at home with their three dogs, and two horses, and only wished they could make friends with the two shy barn cats too! We had a comfy room with a view (and regular size shower!!) inside the house, and wanted for nothing during our stay.

I’ve discovered The Beast is actually BIGGER than a barn!!!

Bonnie’s beautiful rescue horses, Plum and Lula

Plum showing her silly side

Lovely Lula

The entire countryside was really beautiful. I particularly loved the rolling hills and old barns, and pastures full of horses (and goats.)

Adorable neighbor

While visiting, Bonnie and Scott took me on a day trip to Shenandoah National Park where we drove the northern portion of Skyline Drive, a scenic roadway that follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The color was not peak, but we managed to find some amazing vistas just the same. It was nice to have someone else behind the wheel for a change, so I could just sit back and enjoy the view. And Scott willingly pulled off the road at nearly every single turn-out on the drive so I could savor and photograph the spectacular landscape which seemed to go on forever, even on this cloudy day. It was a Saturday in late October, and we shared the roadway and turn-outs with a lot of other people doing the same that day. Families and couples, most of whom were clearly enjoying what was likely to be the last of the color for the season, got on and off the roadway in unison with us. The pace was slow, as it should be. You wouldn’t want to do this drive in a hurry. The three of us had to laugh at a father we witnessed shooing his family back into their car while hollering “Hurry! Hurry! The more we stop, the less we’re going to see!!” I bet he never smells the roses either.

We had a wonderful day together, and spent a lot of time laughing and reminiscing, but the conversation often led back to Hurricane Sandy which was working its way toward the north east with a vengeance. Where we were in Waterford Virginia was on the southern edge of the RED zone, with wind gusts predicted to reach as much as 120mph. The storm was due to veer inland late the following day, October 29th, which also happened to be my birthday. By the time we got back from our day trip our concerns were building.

I felt confident that the girls and I would be safe in the comfort of Scott and Bonnie’s home, but I was concerned about how my motorhome would fare in such high winds. I have ridden out some brutal storms in The Beast, and at 12.5 feet in height and only 4 points (tires and/or jacks) touching the ground, I can tell you she can seriously rock and roll. I’ve wondered several times if the wind might tear the AC unit right off the roof. And none of those winds came anywhere near 120mph!

I considered loading up and high-tailing it as far as I could down the highway, but west was not an option since the cold front coming in from the north was dumping record breaking snow to the west of me. My only option was south, but that wasn’t really taking me any farther from shore. And I wasn’t really ready to leave yet anyway. We had birthday plans!

So we watched the forecasts, and I scoured the internet for information on how much wind my motorhome could withstand without falling over. It made complete since to park it nose (or tail) into the wind, but because of the arch of the outer edge of the storm the wind would be changing direction. I knew I didn’t want to be out there repositioning it with the change in wind direction during the storm. What I really needed was as safe place to park my RV indoors, or at least between sturdy buildings that would block the wind.

Bless my friend Bonnie for her resourcefulness and friendships forged!! She made a few phone calls the following morning, and scored me a nice big barn to park in. And many, many thanks to Doris Williams for providing a complete stranger with a safe haven for a monster size motorhome and auto! As it turned out, since the storm veered north as it came ashore, we were spared the worst of the winds, but it was sure comforting not having to worry about it!

The Beast, tucked safely in a BIG barn

After getting The Beast situated in Doris’ barn, there was still much to do back at the homestead. I spent the afternoon securing patio furniture and helping Bonnie cut down tree limbs that threatened to take down sections of fence if they were to fall. (All good exercise! )

Like me, Bonnie is a big horse lover. Her gorgeous mares, Plum and Lula, are rescues who had been abandoned and left for dead with numerous others, some of whom did not survive. Her love for these animals inspired her to volunteer her time at a rescue organization nearby. Once we felt all was secure on the home front Scott and I joined her for feeding time at Equine Rescue League. What a wonderful thing these folks are doing! The animals here are all loved and cared for… and very fortunate to have found a great home.

Red Baron

Doc, Dondi, and Domino

Rachel and Preacher

Humorous shot of Rachel

Barn dude, Skid Boot

Willy, right before he fell into the trough. I’ve never seen a cat so embarrassed!

We were all relieved to find the property in good condition the following morning, but heartbroken for those who suffered greatly in the wake of the hurricane. It’s horrible to see such devastation. One can only imagine the anguish over homes destroyed, and even worse… loved ones lost. The only thing I could think of to do to help was to stir up a little fund raiser for the American Red Cross with my fresh shipment of calendars. If you’re interested… Raising Funds for the Red Cross.

After a few more days at the Salem Hacienda, with colder weather setting in, it was time to say our good byes and continue on down the highway. Many thanks to my very dear friends… for the hospitality, the safe haven, the dog sitting, the birthday dinner, the day trip along the Blue Ridge, the love, the laughter, and the treasure of your friendship! Oh… and the lantern Bonnie snuck into my RV before I got out of your driveway!!! Love you two!!

As it happened, I had friends camped a few hours down the highway at John Prince National Forest. I met David and Beth while camping near Teton National Park in July. While sharing a few meals, AND some great hikes, a wonderful friendship was forged. It only made since to make that my next stop!

It was really great to see these new friends, who felt like old friends, once again. Over the course of the next few days we shared more meals and more hikes. Beth’s daughter, Avery, joined us for a seven mile hike through the forest. There was nothing particularly beautiful about the hike since the leaves had all fallen, but it was a pleasure to enjoy the sunshine and fresh air in the company of good friends!

David, Avery, and Beth

On the trail in Prince Edward National Forest

While camped at John Prince I spent the afternoon visiting my ex sister and brother-in-law, Kristi and David, in Mason Neck Virginia. It seems funny and awkward to introduce them in that way because they still feel like family to me. Kristi and I took Jazzy and Sadie and their two beautiful Golden’s, Scout and Jackson, for hike through the woods and out to an inlet near Belmont Bay. Then Kristi, remembering my deep seated Cornhusker roots, turned on the Nebraska football game and brought out the munchies!! The Husker win topped off a perfect day!!

Scout and Jackson with their new friends Jazzy and Sadie!

Scout and Jackson

Kristi with the troops

My last stop in Virginia was Lynchburg. The weather continued to be uncooperative, but the girls and I enjoyed a stroll about town. My favorite spot was Monument Terrace, which commemorates Lynchburg citizens who fought and died in the Civil War, Spanish-American War, World Wars I and II, Korea, Vietnam and present day. There are 132 steps, 10 landings and 11 monuments along the terrace, and I understand every Friday since 2001 it has been a place where people gather to demonstrate openly their support for the men and women who serve the United States military.

Monument Terrace

First Baptist Church

Federal Style Mansion on Point of Honor

Funny, I just ran in to meet some new friends who are gathering at Rainy’s to celebrate this Thanksgiving. After a brief conversation I excused myself long enough to complete this blog post. Actually, what I said was that I’d promised myself that I would not indulge in food or adult beverages until I finished this task, and that I frequently had to be mother to myself… “You absolutely may NOT go out and play until you’ve got your work done!” No point in talking back!!!

Now I’m off to celebrate! Wishing you all a safe and joyous Thanksgiving!!

Trips and Trails and Puppy Dog Tales…

Posted on October 19, 2012 by fran

…That’s what this journey is made of! Those words came to me with a smile as I was driving down the highway with my lovable dogs, Jazzy and Sadie. As wonderful as this adventure has been, it would certainly not be the same without them. They help ward off the loneliness that might set in while traveling the country alone.

I’ve traveled many miles, and through several states since the adventures I’m about to share, and it frustrates me once again that I have so much catching up to do. Journaling my travels in this blog is important to me for many reasons, but it can be time consuming and tedious as well. It’s especially hard to attend to when I have an opportunity to spend time with friends (old and new), or I’m driving, or have places to explore (which is pretty much everywhere!) But sharing my adventures allows me to relive the moments, and keep those who care about me apprised of what’s happening in my life. It also fuels my journey in a way. If not for this blog (and Facebook) I would not have the means to share my adventures with so many, and honestly… it’s the sharing and interactions that keep me inspired. I was discussing this with a friend the other day and thought of that age-old question… “If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is around to hear it, does it make a noise?” If not for my friends out there who are tagging along and enjoying my journey virtually… I wouldn’t make a peep.

That said… this post is going to be a bit short on words. I have a lot of ground to cover today and I don’t want to get any further behind on blogging than I already am. It’s a harder decision than you might think… cutting it short. I know that many of you enjoy the stories, but honestly… when I get back-logged I start feeling overwhelmed, and the stress and pressure of my past life has a way of sneaking back in. So, executive decision of the day… do a quick post and get your butt down the road!

When I left Ithaca I made my way up to the Adirondacks. With autumn color setting in, even in the pouring rain every mile was even more enchanting than the last. We found a campsite in Old Forge and did a lot of hiking in the rain. I really don’t mind hiking through a forest in the rain. It brings out a deep earthy freshness… and never fails to take my heart home to the woods of Washington.

Serene Lake

Zippy and The Beast in Old Forge Camping Resort

From Bald Mountain, near Old Forge

Whitetail Deer

The girls LOVE hiking off-leash

Squirrel???

They were framed!

Campsite visitor

With the limited window of autumn, and several states to cover, I had to tear myself away and keep moving down the highway. Routes 28, 30, 3 and 86 took me all the way to Lake Placid. Along the way I literally felt my heart beat faster as I came around corners to scenes like these!!!

Seventh Lake

Wild flowers AND Autumn color

Tupper Lake

When I arrived in the town of Lake Placid I found a place to park The Beast, and took Zippy and the girls for a side trip out to Mt. Jo, which was highly recommended by a gentleman I visited with at one of the many places I pulled off to enjoy the beautiful vistas above. I was promised an amazing view from the top, and set out knowing full well that unless the rain let up I was not likely to see much. But… it meant another hike in the woods, so I didn’t let that stop me.

1980 Olympic ski jumps, Lake Placid

The trail up Mt. Jo

From the top of Mt. Jo

Soaking wet at the top of Mt. Jo

Before heading across Lake Champlain I found a place to camp in Au Sable. The scene below was an unexpected surprise as I drove across the river to the campground, and I had promised myself if the light was good in the morning I’d make a side trip back before continuing the journey eastbound. The light did not come… only more rain… and the coast of Maine beckoning me. Sandwiched between New York and Maine lie Vermont and New Hampshire, two more gorgeous states! They’re next!

Again, sorry for the brevity, but I know I will feel a bit “lighter” as I journey forward today!

Ausable Chasm

Leaving the Tetons for Sturgis

Posted on August 31, 2012 by fran

After almost two weeks in or near Yellowstone and Teton National Parks the time had finally come for me to move on down the highway towards Sturgis (yes… I was about to brave the biker rally), but I have to admit I had a very hard time leaving this place behind. I’d fallen in love you see, with the breathtaking beauty of The Grand Tetons in particular. What a haunting and majestic mountain range!

I have ventured through, and often lingered, in some amazing places on this journey. How many times have I thought to myself (and written), “It couldn’t possibly get any more beautiful than this!”, only to take a turn in the road the following day and have the exact same words excitedly jump through my mind? I have numerous favorite places tucked in my memories. I had to laugh at myself the evening I drove over Teton Pass for the first time, and thought “Oh my God… this has GOT to be my favorite place!” It brought to mind the “Excerpts from a Dog’s Diary” I’d read years ago…

Excerpts from a Dog’s Diary
8:00 am – Dog food! My favorite thing!
9:30 am – A car ride! My favorite thing!
9:40 am – A walk in the park! My favorite thing!
10:30 am – Got rubbed and petted! My favorite thing!
12:00 pm – Lunch! My favorite thing!
1:00 pm – Played in the yard! My favorite thing!
3:00 pm – Wagged my tail! My favorite thing!
5:00 pm – Milk bones! My favorite thing!
7:00 pm – Got to play ball! My favorite thing!
8:00 pm – Wow! Watched TV with the people! My favorite thing!
11:00 pm – Sleeping on the bed! My favorite thing!

(I’ll share the “Excerpts from a Cat’s Daily Diary” at the end of the post to balance out the humor here)

After the amazing two day road trip that I shared in my last blog post I prepared to continue my journey east, but decided to take one last morning hike with my new friends, Beth, David and Jesse (introduced here), before hitting the highway. We met up early and drove together to Jenny Lake. There we saved ourselves a little bit of time by taking the ferry across to the start of our hike up Cascade Canyon. Since I had a bit of a drive ahead of me and David had a scheduled conference call to attend to we would only be able to hike so far before turning back, but we were determined to get as far up the trail as we could before that time came.

Rockchuck Peak I believe (someone correct me if I’m wrong!)

Hidden Falls

Colorful Amish hikers

Jenny Lake from Inspiration Point

Standing on Inspiration Point with Jenny Lake in the background

Cascade Canyon trail

I am constantly on the look out for wildlife while I’m hiking, and was lucky to spot this Bull Moose quietly grazing in the shade some distance off the trail.

Bull Moose

Cascade Canyon with Teewinot and Mount Owen on the left and Mount St. John on the right

With my friends Beth, Jesse and David

A little bit of Zen at the edge of Jenny Lake

When our merry little gang returned to the campground after our hike we said our goodbye’s and shared a warm round of hugs. As we did I acknowledged to myself that I had been very blessed to have met these wonderful new friends. Beth, David and Jesse… I hope you all read this post. Thank you again for our delightful time together. You made my stay in Teton National Park all the more memorable, and that much harder to drive away. I sincerely hope to see you all again down the road!

That afternoon I battened things down and prepped Zippy and The Beast for my final drive north through Teton National Park, into Yellowstone National Park and out the east side of the park toward Cody. I have to admit it was a bittersweet drive. If not for my commitment to be in Sturgis for the annual motorcycle rally, I might still be camped at the base of the Teton Mountain Range!

One last shot of a Bison herd who grazed daily along Gros Ventre Road

The ever so grand Teton Range

I like to think this bull Bison climbed up the hill in my direction to bid me farewell as I drove east out of Yellowstone

Absoroka Range

As I drove east I was amazed once again to watch the landscape change before my eyes. This is a part of travel that can only be witnessed from the road. The diversity of the landscape across our beautiful country is such a joy for me to witness!

I had every intention of taking several days for the trek between Yellowstone and Sturgis, but my decision to make the trip back to Big Sky Montana, and to stick around for a bit more hiking with my friends, hastened my journey a bit. I booked a camp site in Cody Wyoming for the first night, which worked out nicely because a friend of mine from Frisco, Chris Fritche, and his new wife (who I had not met) were there at the same time. After settling in and taking the dogs for a good long walk, I met Chris and Lori for dinner at the well known Irma Hotel. And of course we had to follow that with a night at the Cody Rodeo!

I knew from experience that the 360 mile drive from Cody to Sturgis (roughly six hours by car) would take me longer in my big motorhome, especially considering I had to tackle Bighorn Pass on the way. I’d been warned by David and Beth that it was steep and grueling, and I believed them. Long, steep, windy and narrow passes like that are treacherous and tiring, so I played it smart and booked my next camp site just beyond the pass in Sheridan Wyoming.

As I entered Bighorn National Forest I was amazed at how quickly the elevation changed. It seemed like I went from flat open space into the forest and pointed up the mountainside in a matter of moments. In no time I was wishing for places to stop for pictures. It was beautiful! Often times I can’t stop because of the size of my motorhome, but in the case of this narrow highway I would have been just as frustrated in my car. The few turnouts I came upon did not lend themselves to capturing the beauty of the area, so I used them only to let those who were patiently following behind me (mostly Harley’s) pass safely.

I regretted not having more time to explore Cody and Sheridan, but I was on a mission to get to Sturgis. My sole purpose for going to this motorcycle rally was to capture images of the dogs who come along with their owners on their Harley’s. The plan was to meet up with my very good friends, Steve and Lisa Jane Johnson, who had been there several times and new the ropes. They have a group of friends who go every year and rent a house 20 miles west of the heart of the rally, in Spearfish. The gracious and hospitable owners of the house, Dave and Claudia Little, agreed long before we met, to allow me to park my RV on their property while there.

At that time the benefits as I saw them were saving me the substantially increased pricing to stay in an RV park for the week and proximity to my friends. Looking back, I cannot imagine experiencing my time there any other way! I would have been a fish out of water planted amongst thousands of bikers in any of the area campgrounds.

As it turned out, Steve and Lisa Jane had to cancel their trip only days before they were due to arrive, but I was welcomed with open arms by their friends and enjoyed spending my time with them immensely! Each day we shared coffee and/or breakfast together and then they’d take off on their rides while I journeyed out to find my Harley Dogs. When evening rolled around we met up again… all hot, sticky and dead-dog tired (no pun intended)… to share libations and dinner and our stories of the day.

The Motley “Crew” (my new friends) from left to right- Phil, Mike, Susan, Todd and Ryan

On a personal level… from the seat of my Honda hatchback, or standing on street corners watching for dogs… I thought the entire event was absolutely insane. Hundreds of thousands of bikes and bikers cruising individually and in groups through the jam packed streets and backroads in a large radius surrounding Sturgis, the hub of all the craziness. I saw it ALL (actually I’m sure I didn’t because I was only out there in the daylight)… the tattoos, the tricked out bikes (one disguised as a Bison!), the tough looking dudes, the biker babes riding topless behind THEIR dudes, the cram-packed campgrounds most of which did not exist except for the two or three weeks surrounding “Sturgis”… but not once did I feel in the least bit unsafe milling alone amongst this crowd. Every single person I approached and talked to was friendly and gracious.

Oh, and did I mention the dogs? For the purpose of my book project I have to keep most of those under wraps for now, but I met several and they all seemed quite happy to be a part of this annual migration to Sturgis. I don’t know what better word to use, but I will say that during the few weeks leading up to and following this event the percentage of bikers on the roadways increased tremendously.

Not a great shot, but an interesting trio for sure!

Most of my time was spent in search of dogs, but I did take time off to drive out to some of the favorite day trip destinations… Devil’s Tower, Spearfish Canyon, Mount Rushmore and The Badlands. All very impressive, and all drives that would be great fun on a bike.

Devil’s Tower, South Dakota

Mount Rushmore, South Dakota

The Badlands of South Dakota

My time in South Dakota was interesting to say the least. I was happy to put the noise behind me, but I was glad for the experience, and most especially to have met some wonderful new friends. A huge thank you to Susan and Mike for arranging a spot for my RV, introducing me around, and looking out for me during my stay. It was my pleasure to meet you two as well as Phil, Todd, Ryan and Heidi. Let’s plan on a reunion when I come back through Texas!! Thanks also to Steve and Lisa Jane for hooking me up with such great new friends!

Up next… Nebraska, Minnesota and Wisconsin!

_________

Excerpts from a Cat’s Daily Diary

Day 983 of my captivity.

My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while the other inmates and I are fed hash or some sort of dry nuggets. Although I make my contempt for the rations perfectly clear, I nevertheless must eat something in order to keep up my strength. The only thing that keeps me going is my dream of escape. In an attempt to disgust them, I once again vomit on the carpet.

Today I decapitated a mouse and dropped its headless body at their feet. I had hoped this would strike fear into their hearts, since it clearly demonstrates what I am capable of. However, they merely made condescending comments about what a “good little hunter” I am. Bastards.

There was some sort of assembly of their accomplices tonight. I was placed in solitary confinement for the duration of the event. However, I could hear the noises and smell the food. I overheard that my confinement was due to the power of “allergies” I must learn what this means, and how to use it to my advantage.

Today I was almost successful in an attempt to assassinate one of my tormentors by weaving around his feet as he was walking. I must try this again tomorrow — but at the top of the stairs.

I am convinced that the other prisoners here are flunkies and snitches. The dog receives special privileges. He is regularly released -and seems to be more than willing to return. He is obviously retarded. The bird has got to be an informant. I observe him communicate with the guards regularly. I am certain that he reports my every move. My captors have arranged protective custody for him in an elevated cell, so he is safe. For now…

Full Circle Through Eden

Posted on August 16, 2012 by fran

I’m going for a record breaking 3 posts in 3 days in an attempt to get caught up here! Although I’m feeling frustrated that the storms I’ve encountered in Wisconsin have detained me from getting out on the kayak adventure I had planned for this morning, they may be working in my favor. So, I’ll bypass the grumblings and get on with my story…

While planning my route through the Teton-Yellowstone area I found out that one of my very dearest friends, Brandi Carrera, was going to be in Big Sky Montana with her boyfriend during the latter part of my stay there. Unfortunately, the timing of her trip did not sinc-up with mine since she was arriving in Big Sky a week after I was traveling through that area on my way from Glacier National Park to Yellowstone. I didn’t have the luxury of delaying my plans because I had a limited amount of time before I had to be in Sturgis South Dakota to start on another book, and there was much I wanted to do farther south by the Tetons before then.

Simply put, when she arrived in Big Sky I would be 180 miles south near Kelly Wyoming. We’re not talking interstate miles. Teton and Yellowstone National Parks were between us, and those are NOT quick and easy miles. Let it serve as a testament to our friendship that I was determined to make this work. An overnighter trip by car was my only reasonable option. All I had to do was find a safe place to leave my motorhome behind. While I was pondering this and asking around, my new friend Jesse (introduced in my last post) volunteered to move the auto he was traveling in over to the space my RV was parked in and camp there for the night. He even insisted on paying the fee, which meant I not only stayed parked for free, he was there to keep an eye on things as well! How cool is that! (Thanks again Jesse!!)

In the mean time, while visiting with Ted Kerasote (also introduced in the last post) about the next leg of my journey, he suggested that taking the northeast exit out of Yellowstone and traveling over Beartooth Pass would be much more appealing to the photographer in me than taking the more direct route out the east end of the park toward Cody. I greatly appreciated his suggestion, but questioned how “Beast” friendly that pass would be. (For you newcomers here… the Beast is my 35′ motorhome, and I tow a car.) I didn’t want to miss a route that was so highly recommended but looking closely at a map made it very clear to me that, although I could no doubt DO the drive, it would not be enjoyable in the RV. I know from experience that I’d be so focused on keeping the Beast between the lines on those narrow, windy, steep roads that I would miss the view entirely, AND I’d likely have few opportunities to pull over. My remedy to this dilemma was to make that trip over Beartooth Pass on my way back “home” from Big Sky. (On the map below- D=Kelly, my start and end point. B=Big Sky. And C=the top of Beartooth Pass.)

This totaled up to more than 600 miles of driving in two days, with time for my friend too! That meant the first day would start very early and the second day would be very long. I’d have to travel much of the roadway in both directions too, but I knew I would not be bored with the scenery.

I was on my way by 5am, which set me up for sunrise at one of the most notable vistas in Grand Teton National Park. While traveling farther north, I stopped at a few favorite spots I discovered last fall during my brief trip through these parks on my way to the Northwest.

Sunrise on the Tetons and the Snake River

Grand Tetons and Jackson Lake

Lewis Falls

With a little more time to play than I had last fall I was able to get off the beaten path and discover a few new things… like these vistas of the valley floor, Geyser Basin and Grand Prismatic. The only way to see this is to climb a fairly steep and unmarked hill. It’s not too hard to find, but be aware that the climb is not fit for everyone.

Geyser Basin

Grand Prismatic

Those of you who have been following this blog from the beginning may recall me ranting in frustration about driving up Gallatin Canyon with no opportunity to pull over at any of the amazingly beautiful vistas in my RV. This canyon is where “A River Runs Through It” (one of my favorites!) was filmed. There’s no wondering why. It’s stunning! I took advantage of being in my trusty little car and pulled over for pictures several times that afternoon and again the following morning.

Gallatin River

I had a marvelous time visiting with Brandi and her boyfriend, David, as well as much of David’s extended family that afternoon and evening in Big Sky. The tempting offer was made for me to stay another day, but I had already put off my departure for Sturgis and had much ground to cover to get there (and one more hike in the Tetons before leaving), so, once again, I rolled before sunrise the following morning. The planned 430 mile trek would typically take about 9 hours, but I knew I had a lot of traffic jams and photo ops ahead of me.

Sunrise in Gallatin Canyon

So, I have kinda of a funny story that a friend suggested I share. On the way out of Big Sky in the wee hours I stopped at their one-and-only open store/deli for a cup of coffee and decided to grab a “freshly made” (and way over priced) breakfast bagel as well, knowing I’d have few opportunities to grab a snack on my way through the park. A few miles down the road I opened it and took a bite. Cold. Yuck! I do not like cold eggs and ham! I do not like them… (I know most all of you will complete that thought in your mind. )

I wasn’t all that hungry yet, but I was very disappointed in my $7 breakfast. I continued down the highway wishing I had some way to heat up my bagel, and it occurred to me that the hot water line in my RV is strategically routed past my engine, providing me with a tank full of hot water upon arrival without the use of propane. Why wouldn’t the same concept work for heating up a breakfast bagel? I pulled off the road, made sure the foil wrapper was secure (didn’t want to find gooey cheese all over my engine at the next stop), laid the little package right on top of the engine, and headed on down the highway. When my stomach started growling 30 minutes later I had a nice warm bagel sandwich waiting for me under the hood! Seriously! It worked great!

Geyser Basin

Bull Elk

The Elk shot above brings up a point I should share… You CANNOT be in a hurry when traveling through Yellowstone. This is true here more than any other national park I’ve been through. Plan on more time than you think you’ll need, especially during the summer. If you don’t, you’ll find yourself extremely frustrated. Animal sightings bring traffic to a standstill. Everywhere. I was amused by this last fall, and fell in line with the rest without complaint, but there was far less traffic then. During the summer… stopping in the middle of the road to photograph Elk or Bison, which can easily be seen from pull-outs throughout the park… is really quite inconsiderate. Not only are these people blocking huge lines of traffic, they are keeping the folks behind them from enjoying the animals themselves.

Yellowstone Lake

In my last two blog posts I promised to share a story, and here it is… While driving along the north end of Yellowstone Lake I got stuck behind a car who was following a BIG bull Bison down the road. That car finally made his way past and then the Bison cut me off. Seriously… he was plodding along just to the right of the yellow line in front of me, grunting very audibly along the way. Ahead of me on the right side of the road there were dozens of folks lined up with their cameras and video cams going. “Big Boy” finally moved to the left as he was nearing the crowd, and when I felt I had room I slowly started moving past him. My mistake… I glanced over at him as I passed. I made eye contact. At that moment, with a big warning grunt, he charged me!! In my Honda! Luckily I have quick reflexes and hit the gas just in time to avoid body damage. You should have heard the crowd squeal! They have me to thank for the exciting footage they’re taking home.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… as docile as these animals seem, if they feel threatened they will react. This guy was just giving me a warning, but a gentle warning from a 1200 lb animal could easily kill or maim. The signs are posted, and literature handed out… DO NOT APPROACH THE WILDLIFE! How much more clear can it be? And yet, later in the day I watched a couple pull over and get out of their car to walk back to a very large Bull Bison who was resting quietly near the road. For their benefit I slowed, rolled down my window and said, “Excuse me, but just so you know… one of those guys charged MY CAR earlier today.” I was not surprised to see them continuing their advance toward the Bison in my rearview mirror.

Bison herd on Lamar River

I came upon a very understandable traffic jam as I traveled east along the Lamar River. A pack of wolves had taken down an Elk on the river earlier that morning and were feeding on it throughout the day. From what I observed, they do not stay with the kill until it’s gone, but feed, and retreat. The carcass lay in the shallows of the river, and although it seemed completely unattended at times, the wolves were never far away. I literally got chills up my spine when I heard how this kill was brought to the attention of the park rangers. Supposedly a boy from a nearby campground was out exploring in the morning, and came back with a picture of this dead Elk on his cell phone and asked someone (a parent?) what it was. When I heard this I couldn’t help imagining what MIGHT have happened. Lucky boy!

Onward to Beartooth Pass. Huge thanks to Ted Kerasote for the suggestion! What a remarkable stretch of highway! I’m glad I chose to do this in my car as opposed to traveling out of the park on this highway in my motorhome, and I’m also very glad to have seen, enjoyed and photographed the vistas viewed from both directions!

Beartooth Mountain

On my way back through the park, tired as I was, I stopped to see The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. I have to admit, I toyed with skipping it, but I’m pretty focused on “not regretting what I might have missed” these days. And if I hadn’t stopped, I might have missed this!

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Lower Yellowstone Falls

Back around to one of my favorite vistas in the entire area… The Grand Tetons majestically reaching out toward Jackson Lake.

The Tetons and Jackson Lake

I debated from this point… the quicker route past Moran on the highway or the slower route down Teton Park Road. I think I wagged back and forth a time or two at the intersection, but chose the road I had not yet traveled. It brought me to new vistas of the mountains, and at a “dramatic” time of day. I drove along and stopped a time or two… but I was tired, (really, really tired) and looking forward to the end of the road, when around the next turn I saw a sign… “Scenic Route >”. My head was still asking… I don’t know… my heart I guess… if we wanted to stop, and before “we” could decide, I drove right past the turn. I have to admit it was a labored movement, turning the car around, but I was extremely glad I did. As I stood on the edge of Jenny Lake looking at those mountains I was astounded once again, at the talent and artistry of the Master of all Master Artists. What an amazing work of art! At that moment, photographing the scene before me felt a bit like taking a picture of a master painting in Le Louvre. I was humbled beyond words.

Teewinot Mountain and Mount St. John

Sunset on The Tetons from Jenny Lake

The Tetons… Way Beyond Grand

Posted on August 15, 2012 by fran

At the end of my last post I was just arriving at the base of the Tetons by way of the Snake River and Jackson. I came through this very same place last fall, during the baby steps of my journey. Back then I was still learning the ins and outs and dos and don’ts of RV life. I was too naive to know that the 307 mile drive from Red Fleet Reservoir in northeast Utah to Moran Wyoming, with numerous photo ops along the way, was going to take me way longer than the six hours allotted. Although I could see the Tetons looming in the distance, it was dark before I arrived in Jackson, and I missed the spectacular scenery as I drove north at the base of these majestic mountains.

I was thrilled to be back… with time to explore! I found a wonderful shaded campsite in the Gros Ventre Campground, which was important to me since there are no hook-ups (meaning no AC) and I knew dogs were not allowed on the hiking trails. After exploring the park and surrounding area that evening, and with plans of a sunrise photo excursion in the morning, the girls and I settled in early for the night.

While I was rubbing sleep from my eyes before sunrise the following morning I heard Sadie start “huffing”. This is the gentle warning sound she starts making before she goes into a full on bark. I knew there was something lurking outside my RV, I just didn’t know what. It was still very dark, and it took my eyes awhile to adjust before spotting two young bull moose walking right through my campsite… literally a few feet from my RV. Even when I cracked open the door, and eventually turned on a flashlight, they lingered… watching me, and sniffing around the picnic table. It was far too dark to take pictures, but I was thrilled by the encounter just the same.

My morning journey took me out Mormon Row to capture some of the old homestead structures. I was amazed to find several “photographers” lined up with cameras on tripod shooting frame after frame without moving. No offense meant, as I know they were there in hopes of THE shot, but when I’m exploring new places I have to move about. I respectfully gave them time to get their shots and then ventured around the place, peeking in windows and through doorways. It’s the only way to truly get a sense of what life might have been like in such a place.

Homestead barn along Mormon Row

The Grand Tetons from Mormon Row

Just down the road I spotted a large herd of Bison moving in my direction. I stopped and waited, enjoying their slow migration from west to east. I was joined by one couple in a truck who remained still as I quietly photographed the herd moving toward me, and then splitting themselves around me to cross the road I was on. I would not dream of moving toward them, and felt comfortable as they moved toward me, but respectfully edged closer to my car door as they drew close. After three quarters of the herd had moved past me something startled the stragglers, and I have to admit… the earth literally moved as they charged on by to catch up with the others. (This is not the story I mentioned in the last post, but I promise to share that in the next.)

Young Bison playing amongst the herd

Two mothers and their young

That afternoon, I took my laptop to the back porch of the office building… the only wifi in the park… to catch up on a few things. While there I met some wonderful folks who have since become great friends; David and Beth Lewis from Arkansas and Jesse Bridgeman from Arizona. With Jesse as our fearless leader we set out on an 11.3 mile hike the following morning, to Amphitheater Lake. The 3300 ft climb, to nearly 10,000 feet was made well worth it by the amazing vistas, especially at the top.

Bradley and Taggart Lakes from Amphitheater Lake trail

Ruffed Grouse?

“Will look adorable for food!” It was hard to resist this little guy.

Beth, David and Jesse

Taking a break at Amphitheater Lake

Amphitheater Lake

Amphitheater Lake spills into Surprise Lake below

Beth taking in the view from Amphitheater Lake

Surprise Lake

I started back down the mountain ahead of the others because I wanted to hike around the back side of Surprise Lake to check out the view. I don’t like holding others back with my thirst for “imagery” along the way, so sometimes it’s best to hike on ahead. While on my own I came upon this doe, who surprisingly let me gently move within 10 feet of her.

Female Mule Deer

Plenty of room… with a view

The Motley “Crew”

On the way up the mountain I happened to notice a very slight movement quit a distance uphill from me. Ears. Deer ears. That’s all we could see… wiggling ears, and maybe spots? A fawn? Or was it two? So hard to say from that distance. On the way back down I watched for the place where I had seen them, and was almost surprised to see the ears again. I couldn’t resist the urge to climb up the hill to get a closer look. I kept a respectable distance so as not to startle them, and stood in awe for awhile… at the patience of these two youngsters, remaining still and quiet where their mother left them. I doubted the doe I photographed earlier up the mountain was their mother. The distance between them seemed farther than a mother would venture from her young.

The following morning I had the pleasure of meeting Ted Kerasote, the author of one of my favorite books, Merle’s Door-Lessons from a Freethinking Dog. This is not only a heartwarming tale, but very enlightening and educational as well. You dog lovers (and I know a high percentage of those following my journey are) will love this book. Ted invited me to meet up with him at his home for a hike along the river with our dogs, and I gladly took him up on his offer. His home was no more than ten minutes from my campsite, farther up the Gros Ventre River. Naturally, most of our conversation focused on dogs and publishing. Since I’m in the middle of a couple book projects I couldn’t resist picking his brain a bit on his publishing experiences, and he was wonderfully forthcoming with a few juicy tidbits of advice. My heartfelt thanks to Ted for taking time out of his busy schedule. It was a special treat to meet him and his dog, Pukka (subject of yet another book).

Ted Kerasote and Pukka with Merle’s Memorial and Peace Flags in the background

Along on the hike were Sadie, Jazzy, and Ted’s dog Pukka, as well as two other tag alongs. They all trotted along with us off-leash, which was wonderful. Ted called back a couple of the dogs who had trotted on ahead of us when he spotted a small herd of Antelope. Once they returned to us, several of the Antelope moved as a tight group in our direction… clearly out of sheer curiosity… and after a few moments of observation they dispersed.

Pronghorn Antelope

That afternoon I set out for a solo hike up to Phelps Lake, and encountered more Bison and Moose on the way. Storms come and go rather quickly around here, and I was glad I tossed my rain parka in my backpack since it rained (gently) during half of my hike, just as it had done on a few others. It’s always a good idea to have rain gear when hiking in the mountains.

Female Moose cooling down just like Jazzy does

Bull Moose, wearing a more worried than wary expression

A small corner of Phelps Lake

Rainbow following an afternoon rain shower

As evening approached I headed farther out Gros Ventre Road to Slide Lake, and beyond to the Red Hills, hoping for some pretty evening color. Atherton Creek campground on Slide Lake is where I originally thought I’d stay in this area. I ultimately chose not to because it was a fair bit farther away from most of what I wanted to do, and I’d been told that the road was somewhat questionable for a large motorhome. For many reasons I’m glad I ended up at Gros Ventre Campground, but I did find the road “doable” and would love to come back and camp on this lake one day. It was peaceful, serene and remote… and looked like a marvelous place to kayak!

Slide Lake

Red Hills beyond Slide Lake

Sunset over the Tetons from a pond on Gros Ventre Road

And that’s not all! I still have much to share the about the vast and beautiful combined jewels known as Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone National Park. I, personally, am ever so grateful to our forefathers who schemed up preserving these beautiful places across our country!

The Road to Yellowstone

Posted on August 14, 2012 by fran

Wow! Once again, I’m behind on my blogging. In a recent interview I commented that I might have to route myself through an ugly part of the country in order to get caught up. I still haven’t figured out where that might be, but I do know that the more time I spend in these gorgeous places the further behind I get. It’s a plain and simple fact that I can “shoot” much faster than I can write.

In my last blog post I was leaving Glacier National Park a day early because a series of rock slides closed Going-to-the-Sun Road. I fit a lot into the day and a half I spent in the park, and there was no telling how long it would take to get the road open, so the decision to break my 7+ hour drive to Yellowstone into two days really made sense. I learned a long time ago that more than 5 hours on the road in a big motorhome with no co-driver is a longer day than I like to subject myself to, and the work doesn’t end when I put this Beast in park.

I headed down Hwy 83 with my eye on a few of the lakes on my route, but no reservations. Today we would wing it, and see where we would land when we got there. It was a beautiful drive, mostly through Flathead National Forest and along some really pretty lakes. At a decent midway point I found a spot to camp along Seeley Lake. After a walk with the girls I hunkered down to get some work done, and then ventured into the quiet little town to find a bite to eat.

At sunrise I slid my kayak into the water for a morning paddle before setting out down the road again. I enjoyed watching the deer and waterfowl along the way, and was thinking to myself how serene and peaceful it was when the nearby Boy Scout camp came to life with their morning wakeup song over the loudspeaker. I was tickled at the interruption actually, as it brought memories of my childhood flooding back. Spirit Lake, at the base of Mt. Saint Helens… where the Boy Scout camp was just a walk through the woods from the “doctors cabin” we stayed in every summer, while my Dad attended to the cuts and bruises of the kids at four camps around the lake. I may have to share those stories in more detail one day, because they were some of the very best memories of my life. Looking back, they may well have been baby steps into the journey I would one day make. Surely they cemented my love for nature, and the raw goodness of our earth.

Morning mist on Seeley Lake

I believe these are Red-necked Grebe

The day’s route took me farther down Hwy 83, east on Interstate 90, and then south on Hwy 287 along the Madison River. The river was dotted with anglers. Fly fishing, to me, is more of an art than a sport, and far more enjoyable to observe than any other type of fishing. While enjoying the scenes along the Madison I spotted an Osprey nest from the crest of a hill on the highway. It didn’t sit much higher than the road itself, so it seemed like a very prime spot for photographing Osprey. As usual, there was no place for me to pull 52′ of metal off the highway, so I grudgingly continued on. As luck would have it (and it seldom happens this way) I found a rest stop just a few miles down the road. I pulled in, unhooked my car and headed back up the highway. So glad I did! The fish this Osprey is holding is partially eaten, so I’m assuming my arrival disrupted feeding time. Once it was clear I was not a threat, lunch was brought back to the nest.

While in West Yellowstone I met a gal who took me on a trail ride the following day. Up into the mountain through the forest and across the streams, we rode to the Continental Divide where Montana borders Idaho. This was a wonderfully pleasant way for a horse lover like myself to spend the day!

View from the Continental Divide

The following day I ventured into Yellowstone. I almost hate to admit it, but after a few hours of fighting the long traffic jams, I bailed. I saw a few great sights while I was there, and knowing I’d be in the Yellowstone/Teton area for several more days I hoped to find a quieter time to return and enjoy Yellowstone the way I did last fall, with far less traffic.

BIG bull Bison

This bad boy was BIG, and came very close to where I was pulled off the road (note I said OFF THE ROAD, and not holding up a mile of traffic behind me). I stood in the doorway of my car and shot over the top of it to get these images. I’ll share a story in the next post or two that serves as a reminder that as slow and docile as these animals seem, they can and will attack if they feel threatened. Even from my safe vantage point I felt a tinge of nervousness when he started pawing the earth, and was quite relieved when he dropped his bulk to the ground and started rolling in the dirt.

Gibbon Falls if I recall correctly

Artists Paintpots

Momma and baby Elk

My next stop was the Teton area, but I decided to travel south along the west of the parks and come up to the Tetons through Jackson. For my last night in the West Yellowstone area I chose to get out of town and a bit further south to a quiet little state campground on Henry’s Lake in northeast Idaho. There I was able to kayak at sunset, and enjoy a storm brewing at sunrise the following morning.

Sunrise at Henry’s Lake

I mapped my route to Jackson over Teton Pass, scheduled an appointment for a haircut in the afternoon and headed down the highway. The drive took me through the rolling hills and lush farmland of northeast Idaho, all set to the background of the Tetons.

The windy, hilly roads made for a slow trek south, and as I neared the town of Victor I decided to park it for the night and take my car over the pass into Jackson to make my appointment on time. While there, I drove up to the Gros Ventre campground where I hoped I might find space for my RV the following day. This national campground works on a first come-first serve basis, always risky when traveling in a motorhome of my size with no back-up plan. My concerns were put to rest when I saw the place and talked to the friendly folks who work the office. If I arrived by noon the following day I’d have a spot. No surprise that I found some beauty along the way…

While driving over Teton Pass I decided that a different route would be a preferable option. It’s not a long drive, but a steep one (10% grade in both directions), and only two lanes. I’ve done worse, but why torture myself and all those behind me when there was an alternate route that wasn’t too far out of the way. On the way back over the pass to Victor I spotted this young male moose grazing right along the highway.

As luck would have it, my alternate route was well worth the drive. It took me along the Palisades Reservoir and then up the Snake River to Jackson.

Next up… Grand Teton National Park (and vicinity) and several new friends! Y’all will want to see this!

One Day in Glacier National Park

Posted on August 3, 2012 by fran

Knowing I had a full day ahead of me in the park, I took the girls for an pre-dawn walk, and made sure they were comfy in the motorhome before leaving Columbia Falls and heading up the highway to the west entrance of Glacier National Park. I’d spent a bit of time in the park upon my arrival the previous afternoon/evening, but there was much more I wanted to see. It is always my desire to head out early, when the light is best and the trails are not crowded with people. That would typically be at the crack of dawn. I enjoyed a peaceful drive up Going-to-the-Sun Road. With very few people on the road I was able to pull over from time to time just to enjoy the beautiful vistas. Still a bit early for the best light, but I knew I’d be passing through another time or two.

I arrived at the Visitors Center parking lot at the top of Logan Pass to find only 4 or 5 other cars… and several Big Horn Sheep. The Sheep were milling about the parking lot, licking what I assumed was dredges from the bottom of soda cans emptied to the ground by the thousands of tourist that visit each day. While this may be true, I found out from a Ranger later in the day that they also lick up antifreeze that leaks from some of the vehicles. THAT can’t be good!

It was amazing to see these animals so close, but other than a few quick shots, I did not take advantage of their close proximity since I found the parking lot an undesirable background. I did enjoy watching them though, as the Rams often gathered in small groups, slamming their heads together with a clatter that echoed through the empty parking lot. Practicing for the approaching rut season I imagine.

The most dominant of the Rams. The others seemed to follow him, and mimic him, like kids would with an older sibling.

One Ewe a-leaping…

Tweens?

From the parking lot I hiked up the hill and across the glacier toward Hidden Lake. Thankfully there were only three other people on this glacier as I set out. It was icy and slick in the early morning, making the trek across the mountain a bit challenging.

View from the Glacier at Logan’s Pass

I was on the look out for Mountain Goats above me, and finally spotted a group of six further up the glacier. I stood watching them for awhile, enjoying the antics of the two playful Kids in the group. They were leaping and prancing and egging each other on… when all of a sudden one of the adults (teen maybe) breaks out in what I can only call a “dance” down the mountain… literally spinning in gleeful circles down the glacier. It was hilarious, and literally had me laughing out load. Once again, as I often find myself doing, I looked around me wishing I could share the amazing moment with someone. I don’t know if the Kids inspired him or if he was showing them how it was done, but the preciousness of the moment was not lost on me. Two weeks later I’m still smiling at the memory.

The Dance

Another notable thing that was happening at the same time… I spotted one solo Big Horn Ram standing a relatively short distance from this group, just to the left of the snow pack. He watched and waited. Fear? Respect? For whatever reason he kept his distance and waited before stepping out and crossing the snowpack. Enjoying the show maybe? I kept an eye on him too, hoping for a moment like this one…

Lone Big Horn Sheep

Melt atop the Glacier

When I arrived at the overlook above Hidden Lake there was one other person there. Jeff was his name if I recall. Nice guy. We stood talking for a long time while enjoying the stunning vista, debating whether to hike down to the lake, and agreeing the view couldn’t possibly be better than from where we were standing. As we stood talking we noticed a Mountain Goat coming up over the rise above the lake below us… and then another… and another. Ten in all, two of them Kids, and they were headed straight for us. We figured they were bound to see us and veer off in a different direction, but they just kept walking straight toward us.

We stood quietly and waited as all ten of them walked right up the mountainside to a ridge only a few yards from where we stood. Clearly they knew where they wanted to be, and a couple two legged animals weren’t going to deter them. While the “leader” lay down right below us, the others, including the Kids, came even closer. No fear. Amazing. I got a shot of Jeff standing only a couple feet from one that walked right by him. Photographing them was like shooting fish in a barrel. The hardest part was deciding which ones to share.

Hidden Lake

Family of Mountain Goats

The leader of this small group

The leader’s expression looks gentle and curious as he lays just below me.

On the way up to this overlook I noticed white hair hanging in some of the trees. I snagged a small tuft of it to add to the little treasure trove of memorabilia I’ve collected on my journey. What I surmised is that these animals “sheer” themselves annually by rubbing their winter coat off on the trees and brush along their routes. I was just commenting on this, and how this one looked like she was wearing a tutu, when she rolled over and looked up at me like a puppy wanting attention. Yet another precious and memorable moment!

If I didn’t know better I’d think she was just begging me to come rub her belly

Some of these guys (including the Kids) came so close I could have reached out and touched them, and I think they may very well have let me, but I respectfully resisted the urge. As calm as they seemed, they are wild animals, and therefore unpredictable.

It was really hard to break myself away from this scene, but I still had much more adventure ahead of me, so I forced myself back down the trail. As I trekked back down the glacier… throngs of bodies now coming up… I spot the small group I’d seen earlier. Play time was over, and these little guys were now practicing what mountain goats do under the watchful eye of their mother. Amazing the agility!

The Kids… climbing a cliff side.

From Logan Pass I continued east on Going-to-the-Sun Road. The beautiful vistas were never ending, but constantly changing as I weaved my way down the mountain.

Waterfall along Going-to-the-Sun Road

My next hike was to St Mary’s Falls, and beyond to Virginia Falls. Again, I hiked alone (and Bear aware), but frequently passed small groups (and sometimes Deer) along the trail.

This “adorned” young Whitetail Buck stood there facing me for awhile, as if waiting for me to strike up a conversation.

St Marys Falls

Cascades below Virginia Falls

Virginia Falls

Beargrass stem about to bloom

Beargrass

I drove along St. Mary’s Lake as I neared the east edge of the park. I didn’t linger here because I planned on being back to this spot by sunrise the following morning. (That meant driving the entire length of Going-to-the-Sun road before sunrise! Those of you who have been on that road may cringe along with me at the thought.)

St Marys Lake and Goose Island

Once outside the park I drove north to the entrance that would take me to Many Glacier, and I arrived as a summer storm was brewing. There’s nothing quite like the sound of the crack of thunder echoing through the mountains. Soon after, the sky opened up with heavy rain.

Mount Grinnell and Swiftcurrent Lake at Many Glacier

It had rained a bit over the last few days, but it was coming down steady as I drove out of the park and back down to the east entrance for my westbound journey over the pass on Going-to-the-Sun road. When I reached the top of Logan Pass the traffic was at a stand still. Not too far from the front of the line, I got word from one of the Rangers directing traffic that four rock slides had closed the road. I was told that it was too early to asses how long it would take to open the road again, and that I could wait or go back out the east entrance and all the way around the south end of the park.

Uggghhhhh… at the end of a very full day I dreaded the idea of adding another 3+ hours to my drive. After a short debate with myself, it seemed like the prudent thing to do. My dogs were waiting after all, and I had no idea how long I might sit here. I was not alone in this odyssey skirting the south end of the park. Although it seemed like I set out alone, it turned into a long line of cars in no time. I almost missed the short cut on Hwy 2 because my GPS was trying to keep me on main highways, but I vetoed it’s choice when I saw others making that turn in my rearview mirror.

As it turned out, the drive was really quite lovely. I pulled off a few times to take pictures, once in unison with a family just ahead of me. I heard grumbling as we all stepped out of our cars. I could relate. As the mother stepped up close to me and looked out over the valley, I asked if they had been detoured at the top of the pass as well. She said yes, and I could tell she felt much like I had… frustrated at the prospect of the long drive (and undoubtedly tired of listening to the whining). I couldn’t help but share the thought that ran through my mind only moments before, as I stepped out of my car to this amazing vista. I said, “Ah, but if not for the inconvenience we would all have missed the blessing of this beautiful view.” To that, she looked at me and simply said, “Thank you.”

From Hwy 2 looking back on the south end of Glacier National Park

I also had to acknowledge to myself that I may very well have been stuck in the midst of those rock slides had I been just a few minutes further up the highway at the time. Reportedly two people sustained minor injuries and several folks were stuck and had to wait for the roads to be cleared enough for them to be escorted out. By mid morning the following day the road was still closed. Although I had hoped for more time in the park I chose to head on down the highway and get part of the long drive to Yellowstone behind me.

So… that’s where I’ll be taking you next… Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Two amazing and diverse places that I passed through last fall way too quickly!

Journey in Focus

with Fran Reisner

Tag Archives: Mountains

Back to the Carolina’s

There Are Mountains in Georgia!!!

My Favorite Places Revisited

Virginia… Safe Haven and Great Friends

Trips and Trails and Puppy Dog Tales…

Leaving the Tetons for Sturgis

Full Circle Through Eden

The Tetons… Way Beyond Grand

The Road to Yellowstone

One Day in Glacier National Park