Finally… Cumberland Island! (And a Bit More of Georgia)

As mentioned in my last post, I had a hard time leaving Edisto Beach in South Carolina. Spending time along that shoreline lifted my spirits tremendously after several weeks of cold and dreary weather surrounded by a rather bland landscape. (No leaves on the trees and no snow on the ground equals bland to this Northwest girl!)

I was heading to Orlando to meet up with my Virginia friends, Bonnie and Scott, while they were in town visiting family, but had one special stop to make along the way… Saint Marys Georgia. I camped in Saint Marys while on my way north out of Florida in the spring, with plans of taking the ferry out to Cumberland Island. Unfortunately the off-season ferry schedule prevented me from doing so during my brief visit. This time around I allowed myself a few more days in the area so I’d have plenty of time to visit this beautiful barrier island.

Saint Marys River

 

Common Cormorant drying his feathers after a swim

Cumberland Island, designated as a National Seashore, is 17 miles long. Unless you have a boat, the only way to reach this island is by passenger ferry (no cars, no bikes, no pets). Once there, unless you’ve pre-arranged a tour, the only way to get around is to walk or rent a bike. Since the trails are mostly soft sand I chose to hoof it. This limited me to exploring only the southern end of the island, but there was no shortage of history and beauty there.

Cumberland Island Maritime Forest of Live Oaks

The big attraction on this end of the island is the Dungeness Ruins, what remains of a 59 room Queen Anne Style Mansion built in the mid 1880s by Thomas and Lucy Carnegie. Thomas died before it’s completion, but Lucy raised their nine children on these grounds. She eventually acquired 90% of the island, and built four more mansions for her children including the famous Plum Orchard. (Much farther up the island, so I didn’t see it.)

Dungeness Ruins

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For those who know me, or have been following my journey for awhile, it should come as no surprise that what inspired me most to visit Cumberland Island was the wild horses I’d read about who roam freely on the island. While exploring the grounds of Dungeness I was drawn to the sound of excited whinnying and followed it to find this stallion (at right), mare and their beautiful ghost white colt.

The wild horses of Cumberland Island

The trails lead past many historic ruins and a small cemetery, past salt marshes, and eventually across the dunes and onto a long wilderness sea shore where I gathered as many beautiful sea shells as I could carry. A mile or so up the beach a boardwalk takes you back across the dunes and into the most surreal live oak forest I’ve ever seen.

Shorebirds of Cumberland Island

 

Boardwalk across the dunes of Cumberland Island

Forest of Oaks and Palmettos

There are two rustic campgrounds on this island, one right here in this beautiful forest, but since I couldn’t bring the dogs along I was unable to stay for the night. From here it was a short hike back across the island to catch the afternoon ferry back to Saint Marys. I’d love to come back one day by boat to explore more of this enchanting island.

Speaking of camping… when I first arrived in Saint Marys I went back to A Big Wheel RV Campground where I camped briefly in the spring. It’s quiet, spacious and the owners are very friendly and helpful. Unfortunately they were experiencing WiFi difficulties and I had a lot of work to catch up on, so at the recommendation of a fellow RV traveler I met on the island I relocated to Walk-About RV Park a few miles up the highway. This is a fairly simple  and quiet campground recently acquired by a delightful young couple from Australia, Troy and Suze, two of the hardest working and friendliest campground owners I’ve met during my travels. With four children to raise and lots of renovations taking place there was little idle time for these two, but that didn’t stop them from looking up from every task with a smile and a wave, or engaging in long conversation with their visitors.

One thing I enjoyed about this location was the open space surrounding the campground, where I could let Jazzy and Sadie run freely off-leash. One trail leads to a boardwalk across the marshes to Crooked River. We strolled here several times a day, once finding dolphin feeding along the banks of the river. It was a fairly handy place to launch my kayak as well.

Jazzy and Sadie on the boardwalk through the marshes along Crooked River

The “Duck Pond” at Walk-About RV Park

Kayaking under I95 along Crooked River

 

Sunset on Crooked River

End of a good day in Saint Mary’s

While there I did a day trip out to Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. On the short drive out to the Homestead hiking trail I spotted two alligator AND, for the first time in the wild, a Water Moccasin. You can bet I kept a safe distance from these creatures while photographing them! With predators like these lurking about you can’t blame the tiny little tree frog for hiding himself high amongst the leaves.

Okefenokee Forest

Aligator in Okeefenokee

Water Moccasin

Ity Bity Tree Frog

I’ve really enjoyed this laid-back corner of south east Georgia both times I visited, with plenty of wilderness to explore and all the amenities you could need right there in Saint Marys. I’ll keep this marked as one of those places I would come back to!

The next several stops will be in different parts of Florida, so stay tuned for sunsets, sandy beaches, lots of birds, and my long awaited visit with the Manatees!!!

**********

Note: You are more than welcome to leave a note about my blog post for all to see below. If you’d like to email me directly please use the contact button above. You can also sign up to receive an email notification when I add a new post to my blog by clicking on the green email icon on the right side of the page. I average less than one post per week, so you won’t be overwhelmed with incoming emails from me. Thanks for stopping by!! If you enjoy my blog please pass it on!

Remember also that my 2013 Journey In Focus Calendars are available here!

Virginia… Safe Haven and Great Friends

I’m sitting in the home of yet another photographer friend, Rainy Chastine, in Fayetteville Georgia… here to celebrate Thanksgiving, but blogging about my time in Virginia a few weeks ago. When it comes to giving thanks I have to say that my wonderful friends rank high on the list. I’ve said it many times before, but I don’t think I could state it enough… I am blessed to have so many great friends in my life, and I’m grateful for the time I’ve been able to spend with so many of you!!

As you know from my last post, my first stop in Virginia was at the home of my long-time friends, Scott and Bonnie Salem. They have a spacious property high on a hill overlooking the Virginia countryside, with plenty of room for The Beast. Jazzy and Sadie felt right at home with their three dogs, and two horses, and only wished they could make friends with the two shy barn cats too! We had a comfy room with a view (and regular size shower!!) inside the house, and wanted for nothing during our stay.

I’ve discovered The Beast is actually BIGGER than a barn!!! :-)

Bonnie’s beautiful rescue horses, Plum and Lula

Plum showing her silly side

Lovely Lula

The entire countryside was really beautiful. I particularly loved the rolling hills and old barns, and pastures full of horses (and goats.)

Adorable neighbor

While visiting, Bonnie and Scott took me on a day trip to Shenandoah National Park where we drove the northern portion of Skyline Drive, a scenic roadway that follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The color was not peak, but we managed to find some amazing vistas just the same. It was nice to have someone else behind the wheel for a change, so I could just sit back and enjoy the view. And Scott willingly pulled off the road at nearly every single turn-out on the drive so I could savor and photograph the spectacular landscape which seemed to go on forever, even on this cloudy day. It was a Saturday in late October, and we shared the roadway and turn-outs with a lot of other people doing the same that day. Families and couples, most of whom were clearly enjoying what was likely to be the last of the color for the season, got on and off the roadway in unison with us. The pace was slow, as it should be. You wouldn’t want to do this drive in a hurry. The three of us had to laugh at a father we witnessed shooing his family back into their car while hollering “Hurry! Hurry! The more we stop, the less we’re going to see!!” I bet he never smells the roses either.

We had a wonderful day together, and spent a lot of time laughing and reminiscing, but the conversation often led back to Hurricane Sandy which was working its way toward the north east with a vengeance. Where we were in Waterford Virginia was on the southern edge of the RED zone, with wind gusts predicted to reach as much as 120mph. The storm was due to veer inland late the following day, October 29th, which also happened to be my birthday. By the time we got back from our day trip our concerns were building.

I felt confident that the girls and I would be safe in the comfort of Scott and Bonnie’s home, but I was concerned about how my motorhome would fare in such high winds. I have ridden out some brutal storms in The Beast, and at 12.5 feet in height and only 4 points (tires and/or jacks) touching the ground, I can tell you she can seriously rock and roll. I’ve wondered several times if the wind might tear the AC unit right off the roof. And none of those winds came anywhere near 120mph!

I considered loading up and high-tailing it as far as I could down the highway, but west was not an option since the cold front coming in from the north was dumping record breaking snow to the west of me. My only option was south, but that wasn’t really taking me any farther from shore. And I wasn’t really ready to leave yet anyway. We had birthday plans!

So we watched the forecasts, and I scoured the internet for information on how much wind my motorhome could withstand without falling over. It made complete since to park it nose (or tail) into the wind, but because of the arch of the outer edge of the storm the wind would be changing direction. I knew I didn’t want to be out there repositioning it with the change in wind direction during the storm. What I really needed was as safe place to park my RV indoors, or at least between sturdy buildings that would block the wind.

Bless my friend Bonnie for her resourcefulness and friendships forged!! She made a few phone calls the following morning, and scored me a nice big barn to park in. And many, many thanks to Doris Williams for providing a complete stranger with a safe haven for a monster size motorhome and auto! As it turned out, since the storm veered north as it came ashore, we were spared the worst of the winds, but it was sure comforting not having to worry about it!

The Beast, tucked safely in a BIG barn

After getting The Beast situated in Doris’ barn, there was still much to do back at the homestead. I spent the afternoon securing patio furniture and helping Bonnie cut down tree limbs that threatened to take down sections of fence if they were to fall. (All good exercise! :-) )

Like me, Bonnie is a big horse lover. Her gorgeous mares, Plum and Lula, are rescues who had been abandoned and left for dead with numerous others, some of whom did not survive. Her love for these animals inspired her to volunteer her time at a rescue organization nearby. Once we felt all was secure on the home front Scott and I joined her for feeding time at Equine Rescue League. What a wonderful thing these folks are doing! The animals here are all loved and cared for… and very fortunate to have found a great home.

Red Baron

Doc, Dondi, and Domino

Rachel and Preacher

Humorous shot of Rachel

Barn dude, Skid Boot

Willy, right before he fell into the trough. I’ve never seen a cat so embarrassed!

We were all relieved to find the property in good condition the following morning, but heartbroken for those who suffered greatly in the wake of the hurricane. It’s horrible to see such devastation. One can only imagine the anguish over homes destroyed, and even worse… loved ones lost. The only thing I could think of to do to help was to stir up a little fund raiser for the American Red Cross with my fresh shipment of calendars. If you’re interested… Raising Funds for the Red Cross. 

After a few more days at the Salem Hacienda, with colder weather setting in, it was time to say our good byes and continue on down the highway. Many thanks to my very dear friends… for the hospitality, the safe haven, the dog sitting, the birthday dinner, the day trip along the Blue Ridge, the love, the laughter, and the treasure of your friendship! Oh… and the lantern Bonnie snuck into my RV before I got out of your driveway!!! :-) Love you two!!

As it happened, I had friends camped a few hours down the highway at John Prince National Forest. I met David and Beth while camping near Teton National Park in July. While sharing a few meals, AND some great hikes, a wonderful friendship was forged. It only made since to make that my next stop!

It was really great to see these new friends, who felt like old friends, once again. Over the course of the next few days we shared more meals and more hikes. Beth’s daughter, Avery, joined us for a seven mile hike through the forest. There was nothing particularly beautiful about the hike since the leaves had all fallen, but it was a pleasure to enjoy the sunshine and fresh air in the company of good friends!

David, Avery, and Beth

On the trail in Prince Edward National Forest

While camped at John Prince I spent the afternoon visiting my ex sister and brother-in-law, Kristi and David, in Mason Neck Virginia. It seems funny and awkward to introduce them in that way because they still feel like family to me. Kristi and I took Jazzy and Sadie and their two beautiful Golden’s, Scout and Jackson, for hike through the woods and out to an inlet near Belmont Bay. Then Kristi, remembering my deep seated Cornhusker roots, turned on the Nebraska football game and brought out the munchies!! The Husker win topped off a perfect day!!

Scout and Jackson with their new friends Jazzy and Sadie!

Scout and Jackson

Kristi with the troops

My last stop in Virginia was Lynchburg. The weather continued to be uncooperative, but the girls and I enjoyed a stroll about town. My favorite spot was Monument Terrace, which commemorates Lynchburg citizens who fought and died in the Civil War, Spanish-American War, World Wars I and II, Korea, Vietnam and present day. There are 132 steps, 10 landings and 11 monuments along the terrace, and I understand every Friday since 2001 it has been a place where people gather to demonstrate openly their support for the men and women who serve the United States military.

Monument Terrace

First Baptist Church

Federal Style Mansion on Point of Honor

Funny, I just ran in to meet some new friends who are gathering at Rainy’s to celebrate this Thanksgiving. After a brief conversation I excused myself long enough to complete this blog post. Actually, what I said was that I’d promised myself that I would not indulge in food or adult beverages until I finished this task, and that I frequently had to be mother to myself… “You absolutely may NOT go out and play until you’ve got your work done!” No point in talking back!!! :-)

Now I’m off to celebrate! Wishing you all a safe and joyous Thanksgiving!!

Along the East Coast with More Friends Than Fair Weather

I’m not even going to try to candy-coat it… I’m feeling skunked by my autumn in the northeast. I’ve dreamed of seeing this part of the country ablaze with color for many years, and had high hopes of adventuring through several states to witness and capture them at their best. With dreary, rainy weather far outweighing the sunny days, and the unusual lack of vibrance in the trees, I know I can’t even come close to showing anyone the beauty of the northeast. Lesson learned; Nature keeps it’s own calendar. Best not to count on it’s cooperation, and arrive with an open mind rather than one full of expectations.

What the northeast was lacking in color, it made up for with friends… old and new. I’ve shared several times that one of my greatest joys out here is precious time with friends. Some of those friends I knew and sought out to reconnect with along the way, while others were chance encounters with strangers who quickly became friends.

For several months I’ve been communicating with Horace and Sharon, who I met in Jamaica more than twenty years ago (and haven’t seen since), about connecting when I made it through the Boston area. As that time drew near many of the campgrounds in the northeast were shutting down for the season, making it difficult to plan a stopover for few days. Knowing my size limitations, Horace arranged for me to “camp” on the property of their very good friends, Steve and Bobbi, about forty-five minutes north of them in Hampton Falls New Hampshire.

It’s never easy to impose on friends… lock, stock and barrel (not to mention two dogs)… but to drive onto the property of complete strangers can feel like a huge intrusion. What little discomfort I may have felt was put to rest when Horace and Steve greeted me with smiles, escorted me up the long driveway, and got me settled into what would be our “camp site” for the next few days. We could not have asked for a better spot, nor more gracious hosts.

One of our favorite camp spots, in Steve and Bobbi’s front yard!

After exploring the woods around their home with the girls, I went inside and spent time getting to know Steve and Bobbi, and their dog. Oscar, who was obviously quite precious to them, was old and ailing but still getting around slowly and able to eat the home cooked food Bobbi prepared for him. I  enjoyed the way he pushed his head firmly into my hand each time I reached out to pet him.

Sadly, I found out yesterday that Oscar passed away the day before. He was 15 years old and lived a long and happy life, but my heart goes out to Steve and Bobbi for the loss of their beloved little friend.

Steve and Bobbi’s cool little guy. Oscar

Knowing how much I love horses, Horace asked if I’d like to visit his friend Jay’s farm to see and possibly photograph his “Warmbloods”. Of course I jumped at the chance! Jay was there to greet us, and walked with us to the fence where we were immediately greeted by three of the biggest, most beautiful horses I’ve ever seen.

With Jay’s permission I stepped into the pasture to give them each an alfalfa treat I had tucked in my pocket. In no time at all I was surrounded by these tremendous animals. They could not get close enough, which might have been intimidating because of their size and numbers, but I did not feel afraid. I’ve mentioned before that I believe horses can sense our spirits, but the same can be said for theirs, and these three had very gentle spirits.

As it turned out, it was actually difficult to get good images of them because they followed me so closely around the pasture. It was hilarious actually. They were like little puppies wanting all the attention they could get! I chose not to sweat the images too much and enjoyed their presence instead. The encounter was so amazing I could have stayed for hours, making it hard to walk away when it was time to go. Thank you Jay, for sharing the “gentle giants” of True North Farm with me!

Jay Howlett’s True North Farm

Duplicor

The wonderfully handsome Bodacious, Duplicor and Kingston!

Bodacious sitting down on the job :-)

While I was photographing the horses, Horace grabbed a few fun shots of me with them…

Getting some lovin’ from Bodacious!

My helper! :-)

Both Bobbi and Sharon are big horse lovers as well. Bobbi’s horse, Sachi, was stabled at a ranch within walking distance of their home, so I got to spend a little time there as well. And Sharon took riding lessons at a ranch a little closer to their home outside of Boston. Horace and I made a challenge of trying to get a great action shot of Sharon and Sugar in a very dark barn, on a really cloudy day. (Kudos to Canon for the quality of the highest ISO setting on the 5D MarkII.)

Sharon perfecting the “sliding stop” on Sugar

Bobbi’s horse, Sachi

Steve, Horace and Sharon

After a few wonderful days with Horace, Sharon, Steve and Bobbi, it was time to continue on my journey. I was already stretching my stay in the northeast out longer than most, and had to consider weather and the fact that most of the campgrounds in this part of the country were closing (if not closed) for the season. Next stop was Cape Cod where fellow photographer and Brooks Grad, Patrick Wiseman, graciously offered me camping space in his driveway.

With the business climate in the world of professional photographing changing at mach speed, Patrick decided to branch out to hotel ownership and, more recently… restauranteur. Needless to say he had a lot on his plate while we were there, so the girls and I had plenty of time to explore the Cape on our own.  We had one glorious day of sunshine and spent it zig-zagging all the way up to the tip of the Cape, stopping where we could to nose around, and hike a ways whenever possible.

As always, I was drawn to the lighthouses. They are always unique and full of history. Details about these lighthouses and more can be found by clicking on the blue links. Chatham Light.

These adorable first mates really wanted to come ashore and play with my “roadies”! :-)

Brewster’s Windmill

Home of Edward Penniman, well known whaler from the Eastham area.

Edward Penniman House, Eastham

Nauset Light below replaced the Three Sisters of Nauset in 1923. You may recognize it as the lighthouse on Cape Cod Potato Chips!

Nauset Light

Two of the “Three Sisters of Nauset”

 

The Pilgrim Monument, which stands high on the hill in Provincetown, commemorates the day the Mayflower made landfall in Provincetown Harbor on November 21st, 1620 after 67 days at sea.

Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown

The Highland Lighthouse was a particular favorite, and I barely made it there before sunset.

Highland Lighthouse

The following morning I launched my kayak from a small marina on Prince Cove and spent a few hours “stalking” the local water foul. :-)

Swan pair in Prince Cove

Common Cormorant

Prince Cove

Great Blue Heron

Osprey on the hunt

The shot below was not a particular favorite but I was amazed to see that this Osprey actually has a fish in EACH talon!

Osprey double dipping

Swan in Prince Cove

The night before leaving Cape Cod I checked out Patrick’s restaurant, Mooncussers Tavern in Harwich Port, and enjoyed some wine and the most delicious Tapas I have ever eaten! I would highly recommend this place (which will also be an Inn soon!) to anyone visiting the Cape!

Sending a very BIG thank you to my special friends, Horace and Sharon, Steve and Bobbi, and Patrick! I can’t begin to tell you how much my time with all of you meant to me. I hope to see you all again soon!!

 

The Journey Continues… One Year Later

I have to admit it boggles my mind… that I’ve been out here, on my own, traveling across this great nation… for a year! And what’s maybe even more interesting is that I haven’t grown tired of it yet. By the end of the year I will slow my pace dramatically, staying in each location for a month or more. This will allow me more time to work on the numerous projects I’ve begun, but have little time to attend to while in motion, and it will save me a substantial amount of money on gas. It will also give me time to get to know some of my favorite places more intimately, which I will enjoy immensely.

While thinking of my year on the road I have the urge to share my melancholy… the most memorable moments, favorite places, precious time with friends and family… but I think those may be better shared at the end of the year after I’ve gone full circle around the country. By then I’ll have seen most of the “lower forty-eight”, and will undoubtedly have a bigger collection of memories in my treasure trove.

For now I have my work cut out for me to keep up with my blogging and business. At writing I am in upstate New York, and am working my way northeast to satisfy a long awaited dream of seeing these states completely saturated in autumn color. From what I’m gathering (online research and asking questions of the locals) the peak color is coming earlier than normal, and after an extremely dry year, it is not likely to last long. That means I’ll have to move along at a pretty good clip, exploring AND “moving my home” almost daily, in order to see it all. It also means I will not get to see all I had hoped to see. Many of the places I have on my lengthy list will have to wait until I return to this corner of the country. And I will return, I assure you. It is stunningly beautiful here!

***************

And now… a word from our sponsors…

One of the projects I’ve been working on is a beautiful 2013 Calendar made up of some favorite images from my first year on the road. Until I go to press on October 8th, I am offering these at a discounted price of $16 (including tax and s/h). Orders of five or more will be further discounted. After the 8th they will go up to $18 (plus tax and s/h). Until I create a shopping cart option here your orders will have to be placed directly through me by using the “Contact” button at the upper right corner of the screen. These calendars are high quality, and will make wonderful gifts for the upcoming holidays. Just think… you could be the only one to show up with a gorgeous 2013 calendar instead of a bottle of wine for the hosts of the many parties you’ll attend over the next few months!!! It would be far more memorable and last a whole year longer! :-)

**************

Back to our regularly scheduled programing…

On my way out of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan I took the time to hop on a ferry to Mackinac Island. I took the dogs along rather than leaving them in the RV sitting in a parking lot all afternoon. This was their first time on a ferry, and although a bit nervous, they did great. No surprise. These two are so accommodating!

Interestingly, automobiles are not allowed on the island, so the only way to get around is on foot, by bike, or in a horse drawn carriage. I would have enjoyed renting a bike and touring the island, but with the dogs in tow that wasn’t an option. I actually went to two of the rental spots hoping they’d have a bike with a sturdy enough “kid trailer” to haul the girls in, but they didn’t seem to exist, so we walked.

I found the island to be very quaint, and was not surprised to learn that  ”Somewhere in Time”, a favorite movie starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymore, was filmed there. We covered a lot of ground in a few hours, and I found myself wishing for more time to explore further. While there I made myself a promise to come back one day, and splurge on a room in one of the beautiful hotels. A word to you romantics out there… this would be a great couples get-away!

Light tower with the infamous Mackinac Bridge in the background

Everywhere I go there’s Zen! :-)

Another stop as I headed south was “The Cross in the Woods” Shrine in the small town of Indian River. By far the biggest cross I’ve ever seen, it stands 55′ above the mound it is built on, and spans 22′ in width. I understand the cross is made from one California Redwood Tree. Impressive!

Cross in the Woods Shrine

From there I headed east to Lake Huron and meandered my way south. I found another waterfront campsite on the Thunder Bay River at Lake Winyah. Here I was able to kayak with the girls on board for a little while before a storm set in. At dawn there was a little break in the rain so I hopped back on the kayak with my camera. The birds weren’t as cooperative as some. :-)

Shortly after my paddle on the lake I broke camp and continued south. The weather was not conducive for sightseeing (nor driving for that matter) but I did make a few stops so the girls and I could stretch our legs. One of those stops was at the Tawas Point Lighthouse.

Our destination for the evening was the home of my friends Angela Carson and Steve Post in Northville. I’ve mentioned in some of my other Michigan posts how many photographers I know in this state, and Angela is one of them. I parked the Beast snugly in their driveway and spent a few days hanging out, visiting and getting caught up on some work in the comfort of their home (and tapped into their internet connection.)

While there I took the time to drive to Ann Arbor to visit my niece Lindsey. She’s actually my ex-husband’s niece, but his family still feels like family to me. I had not seen Lindsey in several years, so it was wonderful to get some time with her. We spent the afternoon at the barn where she boards her horse, Graham.

Jazzy and Sadie were quite an attraction amongst the horses, who all came over to the fences to check them out. Some were quite excited by their presence as you can see. And the two little barn goats, six month old pygmies named Mario and Luigi, were hilarious! They were curious about the dogs, but afraid at the same time, and their antics were comedic. Let’s just say they bounced and bleated… a lot! And they were adorable.

Those of you who’ve been reading my blog for awhile know how much I love horses. Graham is big at 17 hands, and absolutely beautiful! Lindsey saddled him up and we took turns riding him. While she rode, Mario and Luigi came over to hang out with me, and attempted to eat my jacket. I rode… cautiously… feeling more than a little out of practice on an english saddle. It was an afternoon very well spent.

Lindsey and Graham

The adorable duo, Mario and Luigi!

A HUGE thanks to Angela and Steve for giving me a comfortable place to get caught up with life, and to Lindsey for taking time off work to spend with me and the girls!

After nearly a month in Michigan I’m moving along. Stay tuned for the beautiful state of New York and the coming of autumn!

 

The Road to Yellowstone

Wow! Once again, I’m behind on my blogging. In a recent interview I commented that I might have to route myself through an ugly part of the country in order to get caught up. I still haven’t figured out where that might be, but I do know that the more time I spend in these gorgeous places the further behind I get. It’s a plain and simple fact that I can “shoot” much faster than I can write.

In my last blog post I was leaving Glacier National Park a day early because a series of rock slides closed Going-to-the-Sun Road. I fit a lot into the day and a half I spent in the park, and there was no telling how long it would take to get the road open, so the decision to break my 7+ hour drive to Yellowstone into two days really made sense. I learned a long time ago that more than 5 hours on the road in a big motorhome with no co-driver is a longer day than I like to subject myself to, and the work doesn’t end when I put this Beast in park.

I headed down Hwy 83 with my eye on a few of the lakes on my route, but no reservations. Today we would wing it, and see where we would land when we got there. It was a beautiful drive, mostly through Flathead National Forest and along some really pretty lakes. At a decent midway point I found a spot to camp along Seeley Lake. After a walk with the girls I hunkered down to get some work done, and then ventured into the quiet little town to find a bite to eat.

At sunrise I slid my kayak into the water for a morning paddle before setting out down the road again.  I enjoyed watching the deer and waterfowl along the way, and was thinking to myself how serene and peaceful it was when the nearby Boy Scout camp came to life with their morning wakeup song over the loudspeaker. I was tickled at the interruption actually, as it brought memories of my childhood flooding back. Spirit Lake, at the base of Mt. Saint Helens… where the Boy Scout camp was just a walk through the woods from the “doctors cabin” we stayed in every summer, while my Dad attended to the cuts and bruises of the kids at four camps around the lake. I may have to share those stories in more detail one day, because they were some of the very best memories of my life. Looking back, they may well have been baby steps into the journey I would one day make. Surely they cemented my love for nature, and the raw goodness of our earth.

Morning mist on Seeley Lake

I believe these are Red-necked Grebe

The day’s route took me farther down Hwy 83, east on Interstate 90, and then south on Hwy 287 along the Madison River. The river was dotted with anglers. Fly fishing, to me, is more of an art than a sport, and far more enjoyable to observe than any other type of fishing. While enjoying the scenes along the Madison I spotted an Osprey nest from the crest of a hill on the highway. It didn’t sit much higher than the road itself, so it seemed like a very prime spot for photographing Osprey. As usual, there was no place for me to pull 52′ of metal off the highway, so I grudgingly continued on. As luck would have it (and it seldom happens this way) I found a rest stop just a few miles down the road. I pulled in, unhooked my car and headed back up the highway. So glad I did! The fish this Osprey is holding is partially eaten, so I’m assuming my arrival disrupted feeding time. Once it was clear I was not a threat, lunch was brought back to the nest. 

While in West Yellowstone I met a gal who took me on a trail ride the following day. Up into the mountain through the forest and across the streams, we rode to the Continental Divide where Montana borders Idaho. This was a wonderfully pleasant way for a horse lover like myself to spend the day!

View from the Continental Divide

The following day I ventured into Yellowstone. I almost hate to admit it, but after a few hours of fighting the long traffic jams, I bailed. I saw a few great sights while I was there, and knowing I’d be in the Yellowstone/Teton area for several more days I hoped to find a quieter time to return and enjoy Yellowstone the way I did last fall, with far less traffic.

BIG bull Bison

This bad boy was BIG, and came very close to where I was pulled off the road (note I said OFF THE ROAD, and not holding up a mile of traffic behind me). I stood in the doorway of my car and shot over the top of it to get these images. I’ll share a story in the next post or two that serves as a reminder that as slow and docile as these animals seem, they can and will attack if they feel threatened. Even from my safe vantage point I felt a tinge of nervousness when he started pawing the earth, and was quite relieved when he dropped his bulk to the ground and started rolling in the dirt.

Gibbon Falls if I recall correctly

Artists Paintpots

Momma and baby Elk

My next stop was the Teton area, but I decided to travel south along the west of the parks and come up to the Tetons through Jackson. For my last night in the West Yellowstone area I chose to get out of town and a bit further south to a quiet little state campground on Henry’s Lake in northeast Idaho. There I was able to kayak at sunset, and enjoy a storm brewing at sunrise the following morning.

Sunrise at Henry’s Lake

I mapped my route to Jackson over Teton Pass, scheduled an appointment for a haircut in the afternoon and headed down the highway. The drive took me through the rolling hills and lush farmland of northeast Idaho, all set to the background of the Tetons.

 

The windy, hilly roads made for a slow trek south, and as I neared the town of Victor I decided to park it for the night and take my car over the pass into Jackson to make my appointment on time. While there, I drove up to the Gros Ventre campground where I hoped I might find space for my RV the following day. This national campground works on a first come-first serve basis, always risky when traveling in a motorhome of my size with no back-up plan. My concerns were put to rest when I saw the place and talked to the friendly folks who work the office. If I arrived by noon the following day I’d have a spot. No surprise that I found some beauty along the way…

While driving over Teton Pass I decided that a different route would be a preferable option. It’s not a long drive, but a steep one (10% grade in both directions), and only two lanes. I’ve done worse, but why torture myself and all those behind me when there was an alternate route that wasn’t too far out of the way.  On the way back over the pass to Victor I spotted this young male moose grazing right along the highway.

As luck would have it, my alternate route was well worth the drive. It took me along the Palisades Reservoir and then up the Snake River to Jackson.

Next up… Grand Teton National Park (and vicinity) and several new friends! Y’all will want to see this!

 

 

Captivated by Colorado

At this very moment I’m enjoying a lovely sunrise in Utah. I’m also making a promise to myself to get caught up with my writing so that I’m not having to dig so far back in my memories in order to share them. I wish I could put to pen, the experiences as I am having them… sharing the depth of the moment… the beauty, the wonder, the joy. Between the pace and the projects and the ongoing battles with technology I’ve not yet found a way to make that happen.

In my last post I mentioned that Telluride should have been the next town on my route while working on my book, and that I had to drive right past because of a huge Bluegrass Festival clogging the town with people. Instead I went on to Gunnison, where my new friends Brian and Cherrie Haugh had offered to host us on their dog and RV friendly property. We had no idea what a treat we were in for! Once “the beast” was safely resting in their driveway, we (me and the girls) were shown to our cozy room upstairs. Actually, we were given a choice… sunrise view or river view. Knowing I’d be listening to the soothing sound of it flowing by as I drifted off to sleep, I chose the river.

Butterfly enjoying the flowers on Cherrie and Brian’s back deck

Sunset from Cherrie and Brian’s back deck

Brian and Cherrie have a beautiful Golden named Dakota, and she made the girls quite welcome. “Koda” is every bit a Golden in her never ending energy and love of “fetch” and water. We all took turns tossing the ball for her, but when no one was standing there ready to play, Koda played fetch on her own. She’d stand on a rock along the river, drop the ball in the water, and as it floated away she’d dive in after it. Over and over and over again! What a smart dog! Her enthusiasm even rubbed off on Sadie.

Although Jazzy and Sadie are part Golden, neither of them has ever taken to swimming. They’ll wade along the shore, and Jazzy will lay down in the water to cool off, but that’s the extent it… until now. While I was throwing the ball for Koda, Sadie got all excited and wanted in on the action. They ran side by side down to the water, and out onto the rocks, but that’s where Sadie drew the line. Over and over she raced after the ball with Koda, paced on the rock excitedly while Koda dove in to get it, and then came running back up wagging her tail as Koda deposited the ball at my feet.  Sadie was happy enough just being a part of the chase, and then… in a moment of sheer enthusiasm… her momentum took her sliding right off the rock and into the water. She was surprised at first, and swam to shore immediately, but she must have admitted to herself that the water actually felt pretty darn good, because from that moment on she ran down the hill and dove right in the water along with Koda! I shouldn’t be surprised that it took a Golden to teach my dog she’s at least part water dog. The whole time this was happening Jazzy lay quietly in a pool of water along the shore, watching the scene as if mildly amused. That’s Jazzy.

Koda and Sadie

Cherrie, Brian and Dakota

In addition to enjoying some wonderful meals and our growing friendship, Brian and Cherrie took me on some local adventures. We took the lovely “back road” to Crested Butte for their local Farmer’s Market.

Aspens

We went to a neighbor’s ranch to watch some “ridin’ and ropin” amongst friends. Photographing this sport was a new and fun experience for me, although a tad on the dusty side. It took no time at all before I had a layer of grit between my teeth. I understand now why cowboys spit all the time! I have to say, as impressed as I was with the men, I was every bit as impressed with the skills of the few women out there.

And of course I had to sneak out into the nearby pasture to photograph this spirited young colt.

Brian and Cherrie also introduced me to several dog owners while there, for potential additions to my book, The Mountain Dogs of Colorado. One of them, Drew, who works at Waggin’ Tails and is a dog trainer, has several dogs. I photographed several, but the one who touched me the most was this sweet rescue, Fiona. She is a pit mix who was used in the training of fighting dogs. It’s amazing to me that a dog could take that kind of abuse by human hands and turn out to be such a sweet natured pet.

Rescue Pups fostered at Waggin’ Tails in Gunnison

Rather than drive my motorhome all the way back up the mountain to Telluride, Cherrie and Brian offered to watch after Jazzy, Sadie and The Beast while I backtracked for a couple days in my car. This really made a whole lot more sense, and it freed me up to get in, work unencumbered, (harder to shoot fast with my dogs in tow) and still have time to see some of the sights.

There’s no shortage of dogs in Telluride, so I gathered images fairly quickly and easily, thus freeing up a bit of time to “play”. I was completely taken by the beauty I observed from the drivers seat of The Beast while cruising from Delores up to (and past) Telluride a few days prior, and hoped to find the time to drive back over Lizard Head Pass in my car when I returned. Since photographing dogs mid day is not ideal, I took advantage of that time to make that drive. I had no intention of going all the way back to Delores (about 70 miles), but that’s where the road led me. I stopped for lunch at a little cafe with free wifi and got a little work done while dining. (One thing about free wifi in an empty cafe… ya don’t have to share the connection!)

I enjoyed the drive (down and back) every bit as much as I did the first time through, and was able to pull off the road several times where I couldn’t in The Beast.

Looking into the box canyon surrounding Telluride

Delores River

San Juan Mountains

Sunshine Mountain near Telluride

Telluride has always been one of my favorite places, and that was solely based on my time here in the winter. It really was a special treat for me see this beauty in the summer!

The box canyon of Telluride

Bridal Veil Falls at the end of the road in Telluride

I wish I could share all the dogs along the way! I’ve met so many, and they are all wonderful in their own special and unique ways. Now that I’m finished with the summer collection for my book and out of Colorado, I’m having to resist the urge to crane my neck toward every single dog I see along the way. Seriously! These dogs are habit forming! Gotta share one more. I had the pleasure of spending a bit of time with Leroy and his owners one morning, and it was clear that this is his favorite thing to do.

Leroy lives to catch balls!

The drive between Telluride and Gunnison hadn’t grown old by the third time!

San Miguel River in Teluride

Ranch Land under the San Juan Mountains

Blue Mesa Reservoir

I arrived back in Gunnison to hugs and smiles and two dogs who were VERY happy to see me. Once settled we enjoyed a relaxing night of Brian’s famous Linguini and Clams and tales from the road. The girls and I enjoyed our time in Gunnison so much we could have stayed indefinitely, but at this point I was already a full week behind my estimated schedule in Colorado with a deadline looming in the distance. I still had Aspen, Vail, Breckenridge and Steamboat ahead of me, so the girls and I prepped for the road the following morning. With Brian and Cherrie’s help I backed the beast onto the road (tricky turns and into traffic!), hooked up Zippy, shared a round of hugs, and rolled on down the highway. A very special thank you to Brian, Cherrie and Dakota for the wonderful hospitality! We loved every minute of our time with you!

Next stop was the Aspen/Basalt area, and the route took me up a steep and windy highway with one of the most amazing views I have ever witnessed! As usual, I was whining to myself about not being able to stop and capture the beauty I was witnessing, and was extremely grateful to find one turn out just big enough for The Beast along the way.

Morrow Point Reservoir

From an overlook on Hwy 92 between Gunnison and Hotchkiss

And the beauty didn’t stop there. I continue to be amazed at the diverse landscape of our country, and to watch it unfold as I drive is almost indescribable!

From McClure Pass

Crystal River near Redstone

Crystal River

Hays Creek Falls

The day’s drive led us back to Basalt, just down the mountain from Aspen. This is an area we’ve become familiar with, having spent time here last fall, and then again in the winter. Although here for the dogs, and short on time, we did get to see my friend Carol. As luck would have it, time with Carol almost always includes a good hike! :-)

While in Aspen I decided to take advantage of a safe place to leave my RV as well as the opportunity to use my cousin Anne’s condo in Breckenridge, so plans were made to save on some gas and do yet another road trip in “Zippy” (my tow car). Before heading down the highway I took the girls for an early morning hike at the infamous Maroon Bells.

On the drive to Maroon Bells

Colorado Aspens

Maroon Bells from the bank of  Maroon Lake

Wildflower at Maroon Bells Lake

Marmot

Tiny little waterfall on West Maroon Creek

Next up… Breckenridge, a bit more of the Aspen area, and finally… Steamboat Springs! Stay tuned for more never ending beauty from the road!

 

Colorado… Too Much of a Good Thing???

I can’t believe how far behind I am on blogging! Not that it’s been all that long since I last wrote, but I have an over-abundance of stories and images to share and my days have been far too full of fun and friends and beauty and adventure and dogs to take the time to sit and research and write. And as is often the case, when there is time I have little or no internet connection. This is still my number one source of frustration on my journey. Not sure how I’ll get caught up, but I’ll do my best!

After putting my daughter back on a plane to Texas I headed to Fort Collins for a big party celebrating the marriage of my good friends Tony and Beth Courter. Although I’m back in Colorado to work on my book, being here to share their joyous day is the reason I made quick tracks back across the country when I did. Congratulations you two. May your journey together be joyous and everlasting.

While in Fort Collins, “camped” on the street next to their home, I found myself itching to take my kayak out. I had not been on the water since I left Savannah two weeks prior, and it was most definitely time. The yearning was so strong that I drove out to a tiny little lake in town, drug my kayak off the car, across a field, down a hill through the brush and dropped it in the water for my shortest excursion to date. I wasn’t expecting to find much worth photographing on this mini adventure, but took my camera anyway… and I was tickled to find one Blue Heron along the shore.

Great Blue Heron, Fort Collins

After a few more days in town I decided it was time to head up the mountain a ways for some real camping, and hopefully some real kayaking too! As it turned out, the county campground I picked (Horsetooth Reservoir) was just over the ridge from day one of what has become one of the states most destructive wildfires. At writing (12 days later) the “High Park” fire has burned through more than 100 square miles and destroyed at least 190 homes.

High Park forest fire the day it started, from Horsetooth Reservoir

I was told the blaze was a safe distance away, so I rolled in and set up camp. Since there were a lot of speedboats on the water that afternoon I decided to wait for the peacefulness of sunrise to take my kayak out. That afternoon Jazzy and Sadie took me for a good walk, I got some work done, had a good dinner and crashed early. I woke up in the middle of the night to smoke in my RV. Enough smoke to wake me from a deep sleep. When I stepped outside I was surprised to find the campground eerily quiet. It was dark as can be, but you could see and smell and “feel” the smoke, and I couldn’t believe I was the only one awake and alarmed by it. The dogs were clearly on edge as well. Although there was little wind, it had clearly shifted. Knowing this could mean the fire shifting directions as well, I got in my car and drove up the hill to see if I could tell where it was. I couldn’t see the blaze from the top of the hill so I figured we were ok for the time being, but I didn’t sleep a wink the rest of the night. By daylight the smoke had shifted north again, and the campground came to life like any other day. After brief consideration I decided I had no desire to camp this close to a raging forest fire. Friendly conversation with the park ranger led me to Carter Lake, a 45 minute drive but probably about 15 miles south as the crow flies. I found a great campsite right on the lake and settled in once again. The next morning I finally got my sunrise cruise in the kayak. I understand they evacuated the campground at Horsetooth Reservoir that day.

Sadie at Carter Lake with smoke from the High Park fire in the background

Jazzy and her new friend Koda

Cruising Carter Lake

Before continuing my journey around the state in search of dogs, we spent a little time with my cousin, Anne, and her family in Lafayette too. The girls and I stopped here for a visit last winter as well, and met their new family pet, an adorable Goldendoodle named Scarlet. I’m not sure I’ve ever met a cuter and sillier pup, and although she has grown in size, she has not outgrown the silliness. Jazzy and Sadie thoroughly enjoy romping around the yard with her!

Scarlet

Countryside in Lafayette

From Lafayette we were off to Westcliffe where my good friends Bob and Kathy Seei own the delightful Over the Brim Inn. I visited them as I embarked on my journey last fall, and fell in love with this little town and the surrounding area. [Previous Post] The route I chose took me past the Royal Gorge which I’d read about, and was told there was a park not too far off the highway where I could leave my RV and walk with my dogs across the impressive bridge that spans the Gorge. Soooo… off the highway we went, up a steep and windy hillside to the Royal Gorge Park. I had in my mind a state park, and was not prepared for what I found there.  I followed the signs to park my RV on the fringes of their huge parking lot and walked with the dogs to the entrance. I felt foolish paying $26 to enter the park when all I wanted to do was walk across the bridge and back, but I’d come all that way to do so. I spent less than an hour there and couldn’t get past my disappointment. Maybe it’s just me, but it just feels wrong to make an amusement park out of such a beautiful natural wonder. I didn’t take pictures of what I DIDN’T like about it. The Gorge itself was impressive regardless.

Royal Gorge

Bridge over the Royal Gorge

Thankfully my spirit was revived during the enchanting drive along the Arkansas River. With very few places to pull off in The Beast I can’t begin to do the area justice, and I vow to come back one day and stay for a while at a campground along the river.

Arkansas River

Deer comfortably grazing and lounging right on the edge of town

With my RV parked in Bob and Kathy’s spacious driveway in Westcliffe, and the offer to stay as long as I’d like, I took the time to get to know the area… and the locals. While out to dinner with Kathy my first night in town I met some folks with dogs, who knew some folks with dogs. One introduction led to another, and soon my schedule was full!

Marti Marnitz told me about Judy Anderson, who has three dogs and whose ranch was the background to  Comes a Horseman.

Once a Horseman was filmed on this beautiful piece of land

Marti also told me about Shirley Lloyd, who lives on a beautiful piece of land, has several dogs, lots of horses, and five Savannah Cats. I spent an entire morning visiting, walking the land with her and gathering images for my book (and then some!)

Savannah Cat

I took almost a whole day to visit Mission Wolf, a wonderful sanctuary run almost entirely by interns and volunteers. The three main goals of this nature center are to 1) Provide resident wolves with as peaceful and natural life as possible. 2) Connect people with nature and foster concern and support for wild habitat protection. 3) Educate to the extent that wild wolves and humans may co-exist so that sanctuary’s like theirs will become unnecessary.

My day was spent learning about, photographing and bonding with these beautiful creatures. By bonding I mean up close and personal. A small group of us were able to go inside one area where three wolves came around to “meet and greet” us the way they would greet other wolves in the wild… face to face. They want to smell your face and teeth and lick you. I’ll admit it’s a bit intimidating to have a wolf come straight at your face, but we were told by the staff that if we turned away or pulled back, the connection would be missed and that wolf would not return to you. It was a wonderful and cherished experience.

A few more creatures from my day…

I met these little guys right in the road on my way out to Mission Wolf

And before leaving town, I photographed one more big, beautiful dog and a stunning sunset over the Sange de Cristo Mountains.

Lucky

 

 

Making Tracks

At the end of my last post I was departing Atlanta after a visit with my good friends Eddie Tapp and Judy Host. Eddie was out of town when I arrived at their place, and I delayed my departure by a couple days in order to see him before continuing up the highway. From there I had only two and a half days to make it to Kansas City airport in time to pick up my daughter, Elissa, who was joining me for a little time on my journey.

My dear friend Kathleen Kelly suggested a short side trip to Sewanee TN, where she lived in the 70s, so of course I took it! :-) Nice town. I saw what I could from the cockpit of The Beast, and then drove a little too far out the highway before realizing that I had no place to turn around… for several more miles, until I reached the town of Cowan. But look what I found at one little turn off while driving down a sizable hill… a breathtaking overlook between rain showers! Sometimes the unintended “road less traveled” can lead to something special. Kathleen’s comment when I told her about my little side trip was, “I can’t believe you drove your RV down that hill!”

That evening I had the pleasure of overnighting with some new friends, Shanna and Loyd Owen, just north of Nashville. Although we met as children, Shanna and I had never really known each other as friends. It was through my brother Andrew, that we connected on Facebook, and seeing that I was headed in her direction, Shanna graciously offered up a place to stay with plenty of room for my RV. We made plans to trailer her horses to a park in Nashville for an evening ride, but alas… more storms. Literally the minute I parked my RV in her driveway the clouds and thunder and lightening rolled in. You’ve got to know I was terribly disappointed, especially when the following day dawned beautifully and I had no choice but to move on up the highway.

Shanna and Loyd did take me for a drive through their local countryside just before sunset that evening. Beautiful area and as one might expect of the deep south… much history. I’m determined to pay them another visit one day!


Shanna and her two dogs (and Jazzy). shot on iPhone

My destination for the next evening was Saint Louis. It’s seldom I choose to overnight in a big city unless I know someone there, but I’d never been there, and it sat right on my route halfway between Nashville and Kansas City. It’s even less likely that I’ll intentionally pick an RV park that is literally a large parking lot with “hook ups”, but it was advertised as being walking distance to the waterfront and Arch and I was only there for the night. I have to say that anyone expecting a short stroll to see the Arch would be greatly disappointed to find it was at least two miles away. Worked for me though. After several hours on the road, the girls and I are always up for a long walk. Our brisk walk took us through a disturbingly quiet part of town, but the closer we got to the waterfront the more activity we saw… lots of outdoor cafes, businesses and hotels, and lots of people enjoying the pleasant evening. The Arch, of course, was pretty spectacular. Closed for the evening when I got there, but I was really more interested in viewing it from the outside anyway.

Very near The Arch, on the riverfront, I found the catholic church my Mother tells me my Great Grandfather was baptized in… The Basilica of Saint Louis, King of France. Formerly the Cathedral of Saint Louis, it was consecrated in 1834, and was the first cathedral west of the Mississippi.

What can I say! It’s a horse! :-)

The following day I arrived at the Kansas City Airport just as Elissa’s flight arrived. She was a little embarrassed at the prospect of me picking her up in the RV, but there was really no convenient place near the airport where I could leave it and drive the car around the loop to get her. Having been there a few times I knew it would be an easy drive through, with no low hanging obstacles or tight turns to worry about, so my thought was that she’d just have to grin and bear it. I wish I could show you the look on the faces of those standing near her when I pulled up. The expressions were a mix of awe and envy I think, as they watched her board while they stood waiting for shuttles to whisk them off to some stuffy hotel or conference room.

Our first stop together was Olathe Kansas where my dear friend (and fellow photographer) Muffet Petrehn was literally standing in the street upon our arrival.

Photo by Muffet Petrehn

With our good friend Muffet Petrehn

The next morning we made time to stop in Lawrence KS to visit another friend and Brooks Institute classmate of mine, Barry Frank. After a bite of lunch Barry took us on a quick tour of the KU campus. I think Elissa was impressed!

With my friend and fellow Brooks Institute classmate, Barry Frank

We also took time that day to stop in Topeka to visit Elissa’s paternal grandparents, and then again in Russell Kansas to stop at the gravesite of her Great Grandmother Nano, who passed away only a few months ago and will undoubtedly be missed by all who knew her. She was one of those women you couldn’t help but love for her kind, gentle spirit and delightful sense of humor.

The trip between Georgia and Colorado took four days, but went by in a flash. Elissa helped me add the new states to my map, and once again… while I was pondering how much ground I’ve covered and diverse beauty I’ve seen so far on my journey, she was completely transfixed on two obvious states I’ve missed… Nevada and Arkansas. I would think after the long trek through Kansas and eastern Colorado (not to mention the stops for gas along the way) she’d understand a little better why it’s not as easy as the map makes it look! :-)  

After making fast tracks across two-thirds of the country I was glad to land in Colorado for some much needed time with my girl. Stay tuned for some fun moments and breathtaking scenery!

The Mountains Beckon Me

I don’t begin to know how to describe my feelings about the mountains. They do tug at me though, maybe even more so having spent the last 15 years living in Texas. My relationship with mountains is not intense, like that of an addicted climber, but it is deeply memorable.  I remember vividly my first “encounter” and that was from a distance. My family was on the move from our home state of Nebraska to our new home in Washington when I was seven years old. Dad, Mom, me, three brothers, two dogs, a VW bug, and a wood-paneled station wagon pulling a pop-up trailer motored across the country to what would become our home. Mom and Dad traded off who was driving what and who was riding with whom. I was too young to know how that decision was made and why, but I do remember my Dad had all of us kids with him in the station wagon. As we drove down the highway through a forest of giant evergreens (fascinating enough to us “children of the plains”) he pointed out ahead of us and said, “Look kids! THAT is a mountain!” We looked out the windshield and in unison refused to believe him. “No way Dad! That’s a cloud!” It was in fact Mount Hood, just outside of Portland.

As children we had the good fortune to spend time every summer at the base of Mount St. Helens in a cabin on Spirit Lake. Of course we had no idea just HOW fortunate we were, and that one day the most memorable place of our childhood would no longer exist (not as we knew it), but we did not take it for granted either. We knew it was a special place. I believe it was the most serene and spiritual place I have ever seen, and I greatly regret never having been there as a photographer. This is the Mount St. Helens of my youth and some history on the mountain and eruption. To this day I still feel such a sense of sadness over the loss of our beloved playground that I’ve been back only once since the eruption, and that was to take my daughter to see what it has become.

I spent much of my youth skiing the mountains of the Cascade Range with my parents, brothers and friends, and my adulthood skiing all over the Tahoe area, as well as Taos, Aspen, Vail, Keystone, Telluride and Purgatory near Durango. These mountains fill me with a sense of awe. They are grand and majestic and at the same time serene and peaceful. They do indeed beckon me, and I am glad to have a reason to make them a part of my journey this winter.

A few days ago I winterized my RV and left it behind in Sedona to venture into Colorado with my dogs and my gear to work on another book, The Mountain Dogs of Colorado. Since I’ll be traveling throughout Colorado for a few weeks and have no way of predicting the road conditions that far out it seemed prudent leave The Beast behind rather than drag fifty two feet of metal through the mountain passes in the dead of winter.

I left Sedona early and drove in the dark for a few hours, all the while wondering what beautiful landscapes I was driving right past… and there was no doubt in my mind that I was. Just before sunrise I stopped for a quick bite and a much needed cup of coffee right along the highway in Tuba City Arizona. When I returned to my car I was shocked to find wild horses grazing along the highway right in front of me.

With the sun shining brightly the rest of the day I was treated to more amazing sights, and found it interesting to watch the landscape change with each passing mile, from desert mesas to woods and mountain peaks. Much of the drive was a slow blend of the two. One of the greatest joys of my travels so far is watching the amazing diversity of our beautiful country unfold before me as I drive down the road. This is not something you can experience from a plane.

Anyone who’s been reading my blog for long knows of my life long love affair with horses. I mentioned before that as a child I snuck my allowance off in an envelope to save the wild mustangs. I knew they were out there, but I never expected to see them. To my surprise I spotted several small herds of them running through the hills as I traveled down the highway. Even at a distance, if I stopped my car they would stop as well… all eyes on me and very alert. I was fortunate to spot this small group behind a hill right along the road. I pulled over, switched to a longer lens and hiked up the hill to see them.  They ran, of course, the moment they spotted me. Not an up close and personal horse encounter, but amazing just the same.

It was right near here that I entered Colorado at Four Corners, a point where Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico meet. Of course I had to stop and pay the three dollars to stand on that very spot.

From here my drive took me to my first stop on this leg of my journey, the lovely history filled town of Durango.

 

And just a handful of the beautiful dogs I met there. Note to the wonderfully accommodating dog owners; I can’t begin to share all of the dogs I photographed on this blog, so please take no insult if yours is not here. I got some amazing images of all I met and hope to have a gallery live for you all to view soon!

This is just the beginning of my journey through the mountains of Colorado. Stay tuned for much, much more!